I've never posted on youtube, but my coworker does. She uploaded a brief video on how to open an Oyster at Tomales Bay Oyster Company on Memorial Day Weekend 2011. Apologies for not making it clearer to the camera (I wasn't aware I was on film til the end). Even greater apologies for the lame smile at the end. Whatever, I was pretty lubricated (not the best idea when shucking Oysters) and enjoying life .
Basically, in short, place the flat side of the Oyster up and the cup in your palm (with protection, unlike me in the video). Make sure the bill (mouth) of the Oyster is pointing away from you and the butt/hinge toward you. Insert your knife, which is comfortable and firmly in your dominate hand, into the hinge and push lightly. You should push to the point where the knife is stuck in the hinge and can support the Oyster, if picked up, on its own. Then, simply wiggle like turning a door knob. You will feel a pop. Take the knife out and clean it of excess shell. Slide it back in, sideways, following along the "roof" of the Oyster in a very slow sort of motor bike clutch revving motion. Cut the adductor muscle located at 2 o'clock on the Oyster. Pop off the top and cut the bottom adductor muscle by sliding the knife in below the Oyster at the 2 o'clock spot. Now all there is left is slurping it back and savoring. It should be a necessary requirement of manhood (and womanhood) to open your own Oyster at some point. And yes, there were all sorts of opportunities to throw sexual jokes in this brief explanation. I was tempted quite a few times at "with protection" and "slide it back in," but, like a gentleman, I refrained for posterity's sake. I'm an uncle now.
The Oyster in the video is a Tod Friend made TBOC Golden Nugget. TBOC is known for their incredibly delicious and briny Preston Points which are difficult to find in the Bay Area outside of a few select restaurants and, of course, the company itself.
This new, even more elusive Golden Nugget Oyster was the fruit of three years of TBOC labor, and the Oyster in the video is one from the company's first ever commercial harvest of this style of growing. It is ultra manicured from being "tide-tumbled." Tumbling Oysters is a relatively new style of growing Oysters. It started with Kusshis in British Columbia, where the farmer would pull the Oysters up and throw them in giant rock tumbling barrels every so often. This toughens up the Oyster, making it shed brittle shell, strengthen its adductor muscle, and form a deep cup with rich, plump flesh (it basically makes Pacific Gigas Oysters more like Kumamotos in size and shape).
The style of tumbling TBOC does is much less time and effort consuming, however. They put the Golden Nuggets into giant bags attached to floats and let the tides do all the work. After a few years of being thrown around by the tides, the resulting Oyster is rich, buttery, full bodied and plump. There are only a few tumbled Oysters out there. Shigoku from Taylor Shellfish in Washington, Pacific Rims and Kusshis from British Columbia, and now Tomales Bay Golden Nuggets (I'm sure I'm missing some other tumbled Oysters out there). Naturally, you end up comparing these oysters. Where Pac Rims and Kusshis have that sweet lettuce and subtle melon flavor and Shigoku have that familiar deep sweet-grass and earthy finish, Golden Nuggets really hit me with a smooth buttery brine upfront and a woody artichoke finish. They were a little spawny at the time, but didn't detract from the flavor or palatability. I hope TBOC is still producing them this fall, because I imagine they are going to be perfect in the next few months.
However, I know you won't be seeing them in stores any time soon. Mr. Friend has made it clear that they won't be sold outside of the TBOC location itself for quite some time. Believe me, our purchaser has tried over and over. Soon, hopefully. But hey, it's now another excuse to take an excursion up to beautiful Tomales Bay, do some hiking, taste some wines, and of course, eat some Golden Nugget Oysters.
Cheers,
The SF Oysternerd
Monday, September 26, 2011
Tuesday, August 23, 2011
WTF's in my Oyster!
I was recently on vacation for a buddy's wedding in the Outer Banks of North Carolina. Quite the nostalgic trip, taking the six hour journey from Philly to Duck. I especially enjoyed seeing all those "OBX" stickers on SUVs, signifying that bourgeois "Hey, I summer in the Outer Banks and I bet you go to the Wildwood, New Jersey, you peasant." I even recalled my sophomoric high school idea of, "Hey guys, we should make "FYB", Fuck Your Beach, stickers in the same design" and how cool I though it was.
However, I have to say the East Coast beach scene is a pretty damn good time. Beer, crabs, sand, corn hole, beach soccer, more beer, more sand, trivial pursuit, two nap days, volleyball, sand everywhere, grilling by the bay, rummi, and seriously, so much sand. It's bad when you go from the ocean, to the beach shower, to the pool, to the real shower and still find sand. It's even worse when you realize a few of your housemates have considered the chlorinated pool as a "shower" for the last 4 days. I really did have a great time though, seeing all my old friends and relaxing for a solid week. Also, having had nothing but Dungeness Crabs for the past year and had Blue Crabs cooked in Old Bay at the beach, I still say East coast crabs are better. Sorry everybody. I know they take more work, but that is half the fun. And, they just taste better.
Anyway, on to the important part. Despite the locale and season, I had to have Oysters. I knew I was rolling the dice on the Chesapeake Oysters the the Sunset Grill and Raw Bar was serving. Could be spawny, could be quite flavorless, or could even be carrying a virus. Hey, at least they had the sense, or perhaps legal obligation, to not serve North Carolinian Oysters. I also find it funny how once you drop below that 37th or 36th parallel, any Oysters on the menu just become "Oysters on the Half Shell" or "Fried Oysters." No regard for appellations, flavor differences, different aquaculture styles, etc. Just grab the Oysters, shuck'em, and dump stupid amounts of lemon juice, cocktail sauce, and hot sauce on them. I have read about the growing respect for regional differences in Gulf Oysters in Texas, though.
So, after having asked where they were from of course, I ordered a dozen "Oysters on the Half Shell" and an Old-Bay-rimmed bloody mary...respect. I got my bloody mary, sipped, took in the tranquility of the bay, and chatted with the friendly Manhattan-native bartender (oxymoronic, no?). The Oysters did come out posthaste, I must say. When they arrived, much to my surprise, at least five of them had Pea Crabs in them. I didn't freak out since I've dealt with them, and, not to gross you out, many other surprises when opening Oysters before. However, I can't imagine that any other customer getting the same wouldn't have gone ape shit. They are pinkish hued, creepy, little Planet Earth Caves episode looking creatures and anyone who hasn't seen one before might be quite taken aback, to say the least.
I decided to play ignorant and ask the bartender what they were. "Oh, they're called pea crabs. If you find one in an Oyster, it means it's a really good one." he responded. Well, I quickly responded with an "actually, good sir, it's Pinnotheres pisum, or, pea crab to the layperson. It's a parasitic crab that lives in Oysters, feeding off both the Oyster's filtered food, and, occasionally, the Oyster's mantle and gills. And I can assure you in no way does it denote a "good one," as you say." No, I'm not that big of an asshole, even though it's all true. I simply said "interesting," brushed them to the side, and ate my dozen Oysters. They were sub par, at best, so I doused on the lemon and hot sauce (after having tasted the first three naked, mind you). If I had wanted crabs, I would have ordered crabs.
Historically, pea crabs have been considered a delicacy, often fried up in garlic, butter, and parsley or sauteed and topped on an Oyster stew or salad. I've tried them, and there's nothing special about them. Fry anything in garlic and butter and it will taste good. I think people just like the shock value and exotic experience of eating them. I simply see no delicacy to them at all, though. Also, they are not baby Blue Crabs, as some may claim. They're a completely different species.
My biggest gripe with the situation was the bartender saying that it indicated a "good Oyster." Having found crabs, worms, seaweed, krill, and even little fish, I can assure nothing besides a plump, succulent, juicy Oyster is what you should be looking for between those two shells. Don't let anyone tell you differently. The only thing you can find better than that inside your Oyster is, of course, a fat Elizabethan pearl that can put your kids through college. Any good shucker should know to either throw that Oyster away, or, to your disdain I'm sure, get rid of whatever little creature was found upon opening before serving the Oyster. Honestly, what I thought had gone without saying, send the Oysters back if they come with any friends.
The SF Oyster Nerd
Thursday, August 04, 2011
End of the Line
I've wanted to write a post on Sustainable Seafood and the atrocities occurring outside of this practice for a while. A lot of it is pretty obvious, i.e. don't eat McDonald's filet-o-fish sandwiches or Gorton's fish sticks, considering these products are literally entire schools of pollock taken from the ocean. Some of it is not so obvious, like discerning between aquacultured fish and some safely trawled seafood. However, I think this documentary I just watched is any easy way of making it known.
The name of the documentary is End of the Line, and it was pretty frightening. I've been reading about the subject for a while, but this documentary just scares you. Kind of like the Food Inc. for the Oceans, I suppose. Granted, it is quite biased and I'm sure it's a bit "Inconvenient Truth-esque" in skewing some of the statistics. However, it is utterly undeniable that there is a problem with our current approach to harvesting from the sea. This movie is an easy and accessible medium to get the basic jist of what's happening. Watch it, research more, and follow some of the links attached to guide your choices.
End of The Line
Here is a list of a few sites that provide basic information on which fish and other seafood to choose, which restaurants to choose, and some local action you can take beyond seafood consumption.
Fish2Fork
Seafood Watch
OPC
The Watershed Project
And remember, HELP SAVE DRAKES BAY OYSTERS! Also, eat Sardines!
Cheers,
The SF Oyster Nerd
The name of the documentary is End of the Line, and it was pretty frightening. I've been reading about the subject for a while, but this documentary just scares you. Kind of like the Food Inc. for the Oceans, I suppose. Granted, it is quite biased and I'm sure it's a bit "Inconvenient Truth-esque" in skewing some of the statistics. However, it is utterly undeniable that there is a problem with our current approach to harvesting from the sea. This movie is an easy and accessible medium to get the basic jist of what's happening. Watch it, research more, and follow some of the links attached to guide your choices.
End of The Line
Here is a list of a few sites that provide basic information on which fish and other seafood to choose, which restaurants to choose, and some local action you can take beyond seafood consumption.
Fish2Fork
Seafood Watch
OPC
The Watershed Project
And remember, HELP SAVE DRAKES BAY OYSTERS! Also, eat Sardines!
Cheers,
The SF Oyster Nerd
Monday, July 18, 2011
The Tomahawk
We just got a new Oyster in a few weeks ago. It's called the Tomahawk. Some savvy old veterans may know the original Tomahawk Oyster from Martha's Vineyard, which I've never tried since they closed a few decades ago, but this one is new. Grown in the Shinnecock Bay on Long Island, it's one of the few oysters bringing back New York Oyster fame. It's grown by the Shinnecock Natives on the island who have been harvesting Oysters for centuries but just now are commercially aquaculturing them (thank god we didn't steal these marine plots from them for a few beads). Grown in bottom rack trays, these Oysters are mid to large size, shallow cupped, beautifully jade colored. They're moderately briny up front, have much more of a "toothsome" texture than your average Oyster, and a very large adductor muscle (which probably accounts for the chewiness). However, the most fascinating thing about these Oysters is the finish. They start like a standard Virginica. Briny, high liqueur, smooth. But after the initial bite into a Tomahawk, a world of bewilderment comes in. You don't expect strong, gamey, Olymipia-esk flavors from a Virginica, but that's exactly what you get from the Tomahawk. It's like making out with a MILF Mermaid. And then it strongly finishes with a piney herbaceous flavor that lingers on your palate with a nice alkalinity. I have no idea what tidal, krill, brackish, or even divine influence makes these Oysters such, but I do know that they're delicious and a must try.
Cheers,
The SF Oyster Nerd
Cheers,
The SF Oyster Nerd
Sunday, June 05, 2011
Drakes Bay Plight
My apologies for not having posted lately. Between family in town, baptisms, 65 hours a week working, the Oyster wine event, friends in town, and an exhaustingly fun Memorial Day weekend, I haven't had much time. The Oyster and wine event went, shall we say, swimmingly (all pun intended). Around 45 people were there, everyone seemed to like it, I got to be all nerdy about Oysters, can't ask for much more. Made a decent coin off of it too, although my brother's car had been towed earlier that day when we were picking up the Oysters, so I didn't even come close to breaking even. The experience was priceless though, right? Thanks again to everyone for coming and I hope you enjoyed, learned, and got a little tipsy.
Now, the second reason for not having posted more recently is the topic of this post. A brief and unbiased background before we begin.
The Drakes Bay Oyster Situation:
Drakes Bay Family Farms, a local Californian company, is run by a century old farming family named the Lunnys. They've farmed grass fed beef for over a four generations in the heart of the Point Reyes National Seashore, and in 2005, took over the Johnson Oyster Company. They currently hold a Special Users Permit in agreement with the National Park Service to grow Oysters in Drakes Estero (using the surrounding land that is part of the national park) that runs out in 2012. The issue: should their SUP be renewed in 2012? Some strongly say yes and others vehemently say no.
Now, I'm guessing if you're reading, you immediately chose the former; no questions asked. I did the same. Can't grow Oysters in a national park? Shuck off, NPS! So I had been contemplating writing about this for a while. Really, how appropriate for SF? Informing the people on how a family owned, local, artisan Oyster farm is going to be shut down by a bunch of big brother squares.
However, I figured if I'm going to write about it, I had better know all the facts. So, I started reading...and reading...and reading. The more I read, the more I realized how little I truly knew (that’s supposed to be that way though, no?). I couldn't have imagined how much was behind this issue. There were even some NPS scientists who, in a corrupt Baltimore policing manner, allegedly juked studies and statistics to say Drakes Bay was harming the ecosystem. Seriously...see below
Shady NPS Scientists
If minds that are supposed to be in pursuit of truth, and truth alone, are willing to risk their careers for this issue, there's got to be a lot more to it. From the inception of this blog, and even some time before, I'd been reading about this. I finally realized that if I continue reading, it would never end. Might as well become a full time researcher. What I thought I could have succinctly summarized in a post that one could read on the BART to work or, more crudely, an average adult's trip to the lavatory, ended up being everything but. By the way, if you find your self still in said location at the end of this, I suggest considering some Raisin Bran Extra on the next trip to the store.
I realized it was getting a bit out of hand for a blog of 12 followers when I found myself reading and comparing different opinions on eelgrass density and reproduction in areas of aquaculture and the countless different comments on the NPS's Public Scope held in last Fall. I didn't want this to be a Ben Stein "Bueller...Bueller" type read. I even found myself at that "Hawley-Smoot Tariff" boredom point while reading.
So, with more than enough said already, the following is mostly my opinion on the issue with a few facts peppered in...hopefully not as bad Fox News though. My apologies in advance for any mistakes I may have made.
Sustainability and Locavorism:
As I've said in previous posts, aquacultured Oysters are on the "Best Choices" list of Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch List. People love seafood, and nothing is going to stop that. Its popularity is even growing. There’s a sort of Oyster renaissance happening, if you will. So, with that in mind, we have to choose responsibly. Closing down DBOC would only force people to find other, less sustainable and less local options for their seafood fix. DBOC currently produces close to 40% of California's Oysters. Additionally, DBOC is California's only Oyster cannery, selling pinted Oysters for cooking. If they were to close, all those delicious fried Oysters or Oyster stews that we enjoy so much would be made of Oysters coming from Washington, the Chesapeake, or, oh dear, Asia (I can feel all of you cringing). Plus, the Carbon Footprint that many claim DBOC is making locally would be globally increased by now importing Oysters for SFers' mollusk mania.
The Local Economy:
DBOC provides employment to around 40 individuals in the area, with fair wages and often provides housing. In a state of economic turmoil, closing a successful operation and adding 40 more to the unemployment rate would be a shame, especially considering these employees support families, pay taxes, have children attending local schools, etc.
DBOC is also a destination for many local tourists. I visited in October and was astounded by the tranquility, the quaintness, and the beauty of the whole area. Well, beauty of the establishment is a stretch considering they haven't been able to renew any of the equipment. It literally looks like an Oyster farm from the 1970's (and in many ways, it still is). The NPS agreement has prevented them from purchasing new equipment. However, the DBOC attracts many people for this very reason (like I said, quaint). I know I wouldn't have gone to Point Reyes if weren't for the Oyster farm. All the individuals passing through that region provide income for the locals. I'm sure the kayakers and hikers do, as well. But, another tourist attraction can only help.
Education:
The DBOC is a popular destination for many school field trips. It provides an educational experience for many children in demonstrating the symbiotic existence that man and mollusk can have. Admittedly, these students could just as easily go to Tomales Bay and see the same operation. But really? If that's you're argument, you clearly don't understand. The more sources of education there are, the more likely it is people will utilize them. No more or less important, DBOC cooperates with local institutions in allowing and assisting in the study of aquaculture and how it can be responsibly and sustainably approached. They’re part of the solution, folks, not the problem.
Environmental Impact:
Okay, here's where I happily plead ignorance. I touched the tip of this iceberg, and can say that decades can be dedicated to this discussion. Are the harbor seals disturbed or not? Does eelgrass thrive or dwindle with aquacultured Oysters? Are nesting sea birds adversely affected? Nobody is 100% sure of any impact aquaculture has. It is, as all science, a constantly changing field with different, clashing opinions. All I can say, having spoken with one of the Lunnys, is that they are wholeheartedly committed to producing their Oysters (and cattle) in the most responsible, environmentally sound way possible. They've been doing it with cows for 4 generations, and are doing the same with Oysters. They've even switched their boats from two-strokes to more expensive, but cleaner burning four-strokes. And to the person who says "Oh, well it's an eyesore when I'm hiking." Hike your hippie ass another mile and trip there.
Deliciousness & Pride:
DBOC Oysters are delicious. Enough said. Not down-playing any other Oyster in California, but in my opinion, they’re the best Californian Oyster I’ve had. It’s a point of pride for San Franciscans, as well. It’s literally the closest grown Oyster to SF. Beautiful jade colored shell, moderately deep cupped, astoundingly briny up front because of the lack of rain, with an amazing herb flavored finish. The restaurant I work at pays extra for its canned oysters because they are that just that much better when baking or frying. The Lunny’s also embody the Locavore movement. Small family, a few workers, treating the land the way it’s meant to be treated. As Rowan Jacobsen says, “Oysters don’t taste like bacon double cheeseburgers or Chinese BBQ.” They’re like wines. You need to taste them side by side to appreciate the full validity of flavor that they deliver. And Drakes Bay brings an amazing contribution to this wide range. So, please San Francisco, I beg of you…stand up for the DBOC.
Public Scope #2 is coming up this fall...October. Strength and Honor.
The Drakes Bay Oyster Company
Cheers,
The SF Oyster Nerd
Now, the second reason for not having posted more recently is the topic of this post. A brief and unbiased background before we begin.
The Drakes Bay Oyster Situation:
Drakes Bay Family Farms, a local Californian company, is run by a century old farming family named the Lunnys. They've farmed grass fed beef for over a four generations in the heart of the Point Reyes National Seashore, and in 2005, took over the Johnson Oyster Company. They currently hold a Special Users Permit in agreement with the National Park Service to grow Oysters in Drakes Estero (using the surrounding land that is part of the national park) that runs out in 2012. The issue: should their SUP be renewed in 2012? Some strongly say yes and others vehemently say no.
Now, I'm guessing if you're reading, you immediately chose the former; no questions asked. I did the same. Can't grow Oysters in a national park? Shuck off, NPS! So I had been contemplating writing about this for a while. Really, how appropriate for SF? Informing the people on how a family owned, local, artisan Oyster farm is going to be shut down by a bunch of big brother squares.
However, I figured if I'm going to write about it, I had better know all the facts. So, I started reading...and reading...and reading. The more I read, the more I realized how little I truly knew (that’s supposed to be that way though, no?). I couldn't have imagined how much was behind this issue. There were even some NPS scientists who, in a corrupt Baltimore policing manner, allegedly juked studies and statistics to say Drakes Bay was harming the ecosystem. Seriously...see below
Shady NPS Scientists
If minds that are supposed to be in pursuit of truth, and truth alone, are willing to risk their careers for this issue, there's got to be a lot more to it. From the inception of this blog, and even some time before, I'd been reading about this. I finally realized that if I continue reading, it would never end. Might as well become a full time researcher. What I thought I could have succinctly summarized in a post that one could read on the BART to work or, more crudely, an average adult's trip to the lavatory, ended up being everything but. By the way, if you find your self still in said location at the end of this, I suggest considering some Raisin Bran Extra on the next trip to the store.
I realized it was getting a bit out of hand for a blog of 12 followers when I found myself reading and comparing different opinions on eelgrass density and reproduction in areas of aquaculture and the countless different comments on the NPS's Public Scope held in last Fall. I didn't want this to be a Ben Stein "Bueller...Bueller" type read. I even found myself at that "Hawley-Smoot Tariff" boredom point while reading.
So, with more than enough said already, the following is mostly my opinion on the issue with a few facts peppered in...hopefully not as bad Fox News though. My apologies in advance for any mistakes I may have made.
Sustainability and Locavorism:
As I've said in previous posts, aquacultured Oysters are on the "Best Choices" list of Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch List. People love seafood, and nothing is going to stop that. Its popularity is even growing. There’s a sort of Oyster renaissance happening, if you will. So, with that in mind, we have to choose responsibly. Closing down DBOC would only force people to find other, less sustainable and less local options for their seafood fix. DBOC currently produces close to 40% of California's Oysters. Additionally, DBOC is California's only Oyster cannery, selling pinted Oysters for cooking. If they were to close, all those delicious fried Oysters or Oyster stews that we enjoy so much would be made of Oysters coming from Washington, the Chesapeake, or, oh dear, Asia (I can feel all of you cringing). Plus, the Carbon Footprint that many claim DBOC is making locally would be globally increased by now importing Oysters for SFers' mollusk mania.
The Local Economy:
DBOC provides employment to around 40 individuals in the area, with fair wages and often provides housing. In a state of economic turmoil, closing a successful operation and adding 40 more to the unemployment rate would be a shame, especially considering these employees support families, pay taxes, have children attending local schools, etc.
DBOC is also a destination for many local tourists. I visited in October and was astounded by the tranquility, the quaintness, and the beauty of the whole area. Well, beauty of the establishment is a stretch considering they haven't been able to renew any of the equipment. It literally looks like an Oyster farm from the 1970's (and in many ways, it still is). The NPS agreement has prevented them from purchasing new equipment. However, the DBOC attracts many people for this very reason (like I said, quaint). I know I wouldn't have gone to Point Reyes if weren't for the Oyster farm. All the individuals passing through that region provide income for the locals. I'm sure the kayakers and hikers do, as well. But, another tourist attraction can only help.
Education:
The DBOC is a popular destination for many school field trips. It provides an educational experience for many children in demonstrating the symbiotic existence that man and mollusk can have. Admittedly, these students could just as easily go to Tomales Bay and see the same operation. But really? If that's you're argument, you clearly don't understand. The more sources of education there are, the more likely it is people will utilize them. No more or less important, DBOC cooperates with local institutions in allowing and assisting in the study of aquaculture and how it can be responsibly and sustainably approached. They’re part of the solution, folks, not the problem.
Environmental Impact:
Okay, here's where I happily plead ignorance. I touched the tip of this iceberg, and can say that decades can be dedicated to this discussion. Are the harbor seals disturbed or not? Does eelgrass thrive or dwindle with aquacultured Oysters? Are nesting sea birds adversely affected? Nobody is 100% sure of any impact aquaculture has. It is, as all science, a constantly changing field with different, clashing opinions. All I can say, having spoken with one of the Lunnys, is that they are wholeheartedly committed to producing their Oysters (and cattle) in the most responsible, environmentally sound way possible. They've been doing it with cows for 4 generations, and are doing the same with Oysters. They've even switched their boats from two-strokes to more expensive, but cleaner burning four-strokes. And to the person who says "Oh, well it's an eyesore when I'm hiking." Hike your hippie ass another mile and trip there.
Deliciousness & Pride:
DBOC Oysters are delicious. Enough said. Not down-playing any other Oyster in California, but in my opinion, they’re the best Californian Oyster I’ve had. It’s a point of pride for San Franciscans, as well. It’s literally the closest grown Oyster to SF. Beautiful jade colored shell, moderately deep cupped, astoundingly briny up front because of the lack of rain, with an amazing herb flavored finish. The restaurant I work at pays extra for its canned oysters because they are that just that much better when baking or frying. The Lunny’s also embody the Locavore movement. Small family, a few workers, treating the land the way it’s meant to be treated. As Rowan Jacobsen says, “Oysters don’t taste like bacon double cheeseburgers or Chinese BBQ.” They’re like wines. You need to taste them side by side to appreciate the full validity of flavor that they deliver. And Drakes Bay brings an amazing contribution to this wide range. So, please San Francisco, I beg of you…stand up for the DBOC.
Public Scope #2 is coming up this fall...October. Strength and Honor.
The Drakes Bay Oyster Company
Cheers,
The SF Oyster Nerd
Tuesday, May 10, 2011
Wine Pairing Event
Sorry for not having posted recently, and for keeping this one so short. Between family events, restaurant events, my regular job, and preparing for this upcoming Wine Pairing event, I haven't had much time. I did visit Zuni's cafe recently, and will be posting on that soon and a little something on the Drake's Bay situation.
Anyway, please follow the link to the May 23rd Wine Pairing event. I know it's kind of cyclical to have the event advertisement with a link to my blog and my blog with a link to the event advertisement, but I'm getting it out there as much as I can. It should be quite the experience. 6 different wines paired with 6 different Oysters, all which we specifically tested and found to be wonderful. Plus, I get to stand up and get all nerdy about Oysters to a bunch of fellow enthusiasts. Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon Vineyards will be there with his wines. I just recently heard about him (since my wine knowledge is embarrassing), but from what I've read, baller sums it up. Jay-Z could appropriately describe it as "he's not a businessman, he's a business, man." I'm really looking forward to meeting him, and hopefully you will also when you come to the event. Limited number of tix are available, so let me know if you want in.
Oyster Wine Pairing Event
Cheers,
SF Oyster Nerd
Anyway, please follow the link to the May 23rd Wine Pairing event. I know it's kind of cyclical to have the event advertisement with a link to my blog and my blog with a link to the event advertisement, but I'm getting it out there as much as I can. It should be quite the experience. 6 different wines paired with 6 different Oysters, all which we specifically tested and found to be wonderful. Plus, I get to stand up and get all nerdy about Oysters to a bunch of fellow enthusiasts. Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon Vineyards will be there with his wines. I just recently heard about him (since my wine knowledge is embarrassing), but from what I've read, baller sums it up. Jay-Z could appropriately describe it as "he's not a businessman, he's a business, man." I'm really looking forward to meeting him, and hopefully you will also when you come to the event. Limited number of tix are available, so let me know if you want in.
Oyster Wine Pairing Event
Cheers,
SF Oyster Nerd
Wednesday, April 20, 2011
Drink Pairings, Hog & Rocks, The Malaspina
Oyster Drink Pairings: Part 1
First thing that comes to mind is an ice cold beer, right? A little savvy? Prosecco or Sauvignon Blanc. Savvier? Chablis or Sancerre. Oh, you know your shit? Vinho Verde, Hendricks Martini or maybe a Muscadet. I’m the first to admit that my wine knowledge is minimal, at best. But, I do know my "oystas." And knowing that, I can tell you straight, there is no perfect beverage pairing for the crass and almost “phrenologic” generalizations about oysters. Oysters, like their wine pairing partners, are as diverse as can be. They're like you and your local high school rivals. Much the same but oh so shockingly different at the same time. Having recently tested many Oyster wine pairings for an event we're holding at the end May, I can tell you that it’s hard. Very hard. However, we found some amazing matches and some demystifying conflictions. Honestly, whatever tastes best to you, drink it. That’s what matters in the end. Although, some suggestions may be able to guide you along.
Wine is too hard. Too much. Too ubiquitous. Too many possibilities and intricacies. I will certainly post a few what-I found-to-be-magical pairings, but I’m saving those guys for the event in May. I'm new to SF, and still learning about wines. I just know that having had two of the exact same varietals and tasting drastic differences when paired with Oysters is testament to how nuanced it really is. I’d rather leap out the gates strong. No messing about. Scotch & Oysters. Can I get a Stuart Scott “BOOYA.”
Bunnahabhain 12 Year Old & Bruichladdich 12 Year Old
Both of these whiskeys are made on Islay. Bunnahabhain on the Northeastern side and Bruichladdich in the Southwestern Inlet. I know I'd be flogged, maybe even drawn and quartered, by the creators of these for having lumped them together, but I feel they both carry much of the same flavors. Both are very light on the nose, have a mild peatiness, almost driftwood muskiness, and that familiar Islay brine up front. All the better, they finish with a lemon pith and grassy hint. If that doesn't say Oyster pairing to you, I don't know what does. Celebrate these Scottish sensations with the more strongly flavored of Oysters. The European Flats jump right into mind. Belons are certainly for the more daring oyster eater, but their strong iodine and coppery notes dance beautifully with these Scotches, especially up front. Olympias play nicely, as do those musky Washington Skookums and Steamboats.
Scapa 8 Year Old & Highland Park's 8 Year Old MacPhail's Collection
Scapa is teetering on the cusp of even being called a Scotch. There is practically no smokiness whatsoever to it. This is due to the lack of peat in the distillation process. What you do get is an intense Atlantic brine and hints of sour apple. It's an Island Scotch, but not an Islay Scotch. It's made on the Northern Scotland Orkney Islands, one of only two major distilleries on the Islands, the other being the latter in the title. Both of these Scotches deliver strong on the ocean saltiness (exactly what I'm looking for to pair with oysters). I'll be honest on the Highland Park. I have not had the chance to sample it with Oysters, only on its own. But something tells me with with its nice brine up front and orange peel finish, it's definitely a major player. Stick close to the Rhode Island Oysters with these treasures. A Moonstone or a Ninigret Cup works perfectly with these Scotches. Both come through with a nice mineral lemon finish, pairing wonderfully with the Scapa. Even the mild New Brunswick Oysters like French Kiss and Beausoleil go nicely.
It's certainly going against the grain, pairing Scotch & Oysters. But, they are two of my greatest passions. And I've found that these particular couples ring true.
Hog & Rocks
Mission District
19th Street between Mission and Lexington
I went to Hog & Rocks Monday night, after my first post, and again last Wednesday. Honestly, I heard about it from eavesdropping on a couple walking behind me talking about it. The concept of this place is awesome. Few things pair better than cured pig and shellfish, and this place is testament to that (sorry kosher-keepers). I mean, bacon is addictive, literally. It plays with the same receptors heroin does. And thrown together with some succulent bivalves, it’s hard to beat. Bacon wrapped prawns, paella, jambalaya, prosciutto wrapped scallops, gumbo, clams casino, Oysters Rockefeller, bacon-laden chowders. The list can go on and on. It's a pretty fail-safe combo.
The bar itself is pretty nice. Fairly wide booze selection, dim but not dark lighting, family style tables, music is noticeable but doesn't hinder conversation. There are even some interesting "food porn" photos on the walls. I'm not restaurant/bar critic, but I think it's a pretty cool spot. A nice escape from the hipster infested 18th and Valencia area. Seriously, living in the Mission, if I see another skinny jean Sanskrit or Japanese tattoo combo, I might lose my shit. Ride your single gears back to Wisconsin and talk about nihilism and vampire-punk bands there. I'm actually writing this at the Haus Coffee House in Mission, so I've got a lot of fodder. Twenty bucks says the barista has a liberal arts degree from Middlebury or something and is more than happy to share her feelings on Eugene Debs or Sylvia Plath. Go ahead and "consume more cool" guys. Anyway, Hog & Rocks is a place where you could bring a nice date and also a place where three Harley bikers could comfortably hang out (they were at my family table next to me).
First thing I noticed were the $9 beer and shot pairings. Sold. Any place that has boilermaker deals is good by me. Plus, if you order a second, it’s only $5. Two beers and two shots for $14. My dad's from Pittsburgh, so it's in the blood. I ordered the Stout and Jameson (Stout and Oysters are a classic Irish pairing...
O'Reilly's Oystefest
...coming up May 14th...case and point)
The menu consists of some clever and trendy offal dishes, pickled and charcuterie jars, and your standard wings, fish & chips, etc. Of course I wasn't there for these things, though.
They have separate menu you specifically mark and hand to the server for which oysters and hams you want and the portion size. They seem to keep a selection of five hams and six oysters on the menu consistently, which is a sign of commitment to, well, it is the name of the place so they better be committed. I imagine, and hope, that seasonality dictates the varieties they carry. Hams can also have a terroir to them, like Oysters. Depending on the aging process and location (like the caves of Andalucia, Spain), flavors can change immensely. I'm not a Salumi Nerd, though. I do know that standard American Hams are quite embarrassing when compared to most European Hams. France, Spain, and Italy all define their hams by aging processes and appellations. We, on the other hand, define ours by percentage of protein and the amount of water added. It's more like ham product than actual ham. However, conscious and artisan ham producers are on the rise in the States. The Hog & Rocks hams were very tasty, topped with some traditional and not-so-traditional accoutrements. I had a Monte Nevado Spanish Serrano with an extra virgin olive oil drizzle and parmesan, San Daniele Italian Prosciutto with fig and balsamic, and a spicy Iowan Picante by La Quercia with roasted pineapple. All were excellent, but I don't think I've ever had a bad artisan ham.
Now, the important part. They had the following served with the traditional mignonette of red wine vinegar, macerated shallots, and cracked pepper.
Hood Canals from Washington, USA
Cranberry Creeks from Washington, USA
Malaspina from British Columbia, Canada
Beausoleil from New Brunswick, Canada
Kusshi, British Columbia, Canada
Point Reyes, California, USA
I ordered two of each, except the Hood Canals. It's a generic name for Oysters from, well, Hood Canal, Washington and I've shucked enough to know that the quality, size, and flavor is inconsistent and often poor. They're pretty mass produced and you know how quality vs. quantity goes.
I'd had each before, except the Malaspina. Beasoleils were on point. It's a mild, shallow-cupped, high liquor for its size, medium salinity and minerality Oyster that always pleases. Even has a nice freshly baked bread aroma to it. It's a great starter Oyster, if you're a beginner. Cranberry Creeks were tasty as well.
The Kusshis were definitely a few sub-par ones the first time around but perfectly delicious on the second round. This could have been from time spent in the walk in, genetics, or environment. Some Oysters just aren't quite as blessed as others, my mother would probably say. Doesn't mean they're bad, just means they're not spectacular. Also, West coast Oysters tend to deteriorate and die much more quickly than East coast oysters due to a weaker adductor muscle. So, keep this in mind when buying retail Oysters at a fish market. East coast Oysters can live up to a month if properly maintained, while West coasts I wouldn't push past two weeks. Does this mean Oysters are an analogy for the U.S. coastal wars? For which has more strength, prowess, resilience, or any other complimentary adjective you want to throw at it? Being from Philly, I'm going to say yes. Or they're just a bunch of assholes that won't tap out. Whatever vantage point works for you.
Back to the Kusshi, though. They're usually an excellent new try if you're a Kumamoto or bust person. They're fascinating little beasts as well. Grown in suspension bags and then literally tumbled in a sort of rock tumbler so they develop stronger and deeper shells. This makes it sweet, clean, crisp, and with a citrus finish. Comparable in size and cup depth to the Kumamoto. Hog & Rocks just didn't deliver on this one the first time around. They most certainly did on the second, though. But hey, I've put a few not %100 amazing oysters out. It's not a deal breaker for a place.
Point Reyes. Okay, here's where I did have an issue. Granted Point Reyes is another generic name for Oysters, but you're a Californian Oysterbar, with one California oyster. I'm fine with that. There are many better oysters out there than Californian ones, quite frankly. Sorry CA, but you've already got plenty more going for you. However, some people stay latched to that "well, we're in California, so the Californian Oysters must be best." Freshness by locale is a major misnomer these days. The freshness of a product depends on the restaurant and its turnover. As in a sushi bar or a seafood market, stick to the more popular places for Oysters. The higher the turnover of product, the fresher it's going to be. Certainly, the purveyor is important, but most quality establishments are getting their products to market and then to restaurant within 36 hours. Even in San Francisco, a Cape Cod Oyster can be fresher than a Tomales Bay Oyster, depending on the situation.
My issue with the Point Reyes Oysters I was given was that they were poorly shucked and creamy. They were cut right through on opening with the gut exposed. Creaminess can be nice sometimes, but when it's to the degree where the Oyster is clearly spawning or about to, don't serve it. It's a bad sign when your flagship Californian Oysters are not culled properly when shucking.
The Malaspina
Now, the thing that eclipsed all else was the Malaspina Oyster from British Columbia. Apparently these Oysters are grown in a secluded bay with practically no residents, far north of Vancouver. Suspect, at best. Oompa-Loompas must have a hand in crafting these little Wonkalicious delights. It was one of the best Oysters I've had in a long time. Many Oyster descriptions claim hints of watermelon, but this one truly has it. Medium cupped but full, plump and juicy, little to no brine with wonderfully overwhelming flavors of watermelon. Okay, so it's not like sucking on a Now & Later or Jolly Rancher. But seriously. An Oyster that tastes like watermelon? Pretty awe-inspiring in my opinion. Hog & Rocks did shuck and present these beauties perfectly, as well. This was the first time I've seen this Oyster, and, seriously, on a free night, I may just call local raw bars to see if they have it and base my dining choice on that. I also recently had Evening Coves, from the same Vancouver Island region. They, too, magically had this watermelon hint to them.
All in all, Hog & Rocks was a nice dining experience. Hams, drinks, and most Oysters were excellent. Servers were very friendly and attentive. It's a nice change up from the traditional Swan's or Hog Island raw bar experience, and one of the few places you can get your Oyster-fix just shy of midnight. Plus, we must not forget, few to no hipsters.
I've got an Oyster Wine Pairing event coming up on May 23rd, as I mentioned before. The advert has yet to be made, but will be shortly. You can be sure that's what I'll be following with on the blog. And, as always, please tell me new places to try.
Cheers,
The SF Oyster Nerd
First thing that comes to mind is an ice cold beer, right? A little savvy? Prosecco or Sauvignon Blanc. Savvier? Chablis or Sancerre. Oh, you know your shit? Vinho Verde, Hendricks Martini or maybe a Muscadet. I’m the first to admit that my wine knowledge is minimal, at best. But, I do know my "oystas." And knowing that, I can tell you straight, there is no perfect beverage pairing for the crass and almost “phrenologic” generalizations about oysters. Oysters, like their wine pairing partners, are as diverse as can be. They're like you and your local high school rivals. Much the same but oh so shockingly different at the same time. Having recently tested many Oyster wine pairings for an event we're holding at the end May, I can tell you that it’s hard. Very hard. However, we found some amazing matches and some demystifying conflictions. Honestly, whatever tastes best to you, drink it. That’s what matters in the end. Although, some suggestions may be able to guide you along.
Wine is too hard. Too much. Too ubiquitous. Too many possibilities and intricacies. I will certainly post a few what-I found-to-be-magical pairings, but I’m saving those guys for the event in May. I'm new to SF, and still learning about wines. I just know that having had two of the exact same varietals and tasting drastic differences when paired with Oysters is testament to how nuanced it really is. I’d rather leap out the gates strong. No messing about. Scotch & Oysters. Can I get a Stuart Scott “BOOYA.”
Bunnahabhain 12 Year Old & Bruichladdich 12 Year Old
Both of these whiskeys are made on Islay. Bunnahabhain on the Northeastern side and Bruichladdich in the Southwestern Inlet. I know I'd be flogged, maybe even drawn and quartered, by the creators of these for having lumped them together, but I feel they both carry much of the same flavors. Both are very light on the nose, have a mild peatiness, almost driftwood muskiness, and that familiar Islay brine up front. All the better, they finish with a lemon pith and grassy hint. If that doesn't say Oyster pairing to you, I don't know what does. Celebrate these Scottish sensations with the more strongly flavored of Oysters. The European Flats jump right into mind. Belons are certainly for the more daring oyster eater, but their strong iodine and coppery notes dance beautifully with these Scotches, especially up front. Olympias play nicely, as do those musky Washington Skookums and Steamboats.
Scapa 8 Year Old & Highland Park's 8 Year Old MacPhail's Collection
Scapa is teetering on the cusp of even being called a Scotch. There is practically no smokiness whatsoever to it. This is due to the lack of peat in the distillation process. What you do get is an intense Atlantic brine and hints of sour apple. It's an Island Scotch, but not an Islay Scotch. It's made on the Northern Scotland Orkney Islands, one of only two major distilleries on the Islands, the other being the latter in the title. Both of these Scotches deliver strong on the ocean saltiness (exactly what I'm looking for to pair with oysters). I'll be honest on the Highland Park. I have not had the chance to sample it with Oysters, only on its own. But something tells me with with its nice brine up front and orange peel finish, it's definitely a major player. Stick close to the Rhode Island Oysters with these treasures. A Moonstone or a Ninigret Cup works perfectly with these Scotches. Both come through with a nice mineral lemon finish, pairing wonderfully with the Scapa. Even the mild New Brunswick Oysters like French Kiss and Beausoleil go nicely.
It's certainly going against the grain, pairing Scotch & Oysters. But, they are two of my greatest passions. And I've found that these particular couples ring true.
Hog & Rocks
Mission District
19th Street between Mission and Lexington
I went to Hog & Rocks Monday night, after my first post, and again last Wednesday. Honestly, I heard about it from eavesdropping on a couple walking behind me talking about it. The concept of this place is awesome. Few things pair better than cured pig and shellfish, and this place is testament to that (sorry kosher-keepers). I mean, bacon is addictive, literally. It plays with the same receptors heroin does. And thrown together with some succulent bivalves, it’s hard to beat. Bacon wrapped prawns, paella, jambalaya, prosciutto wrapped scallops, gumbo, clams casino, Oysters Rockefeller, bacon-laden chowders. The list can go on and on. It's a pretty fail-safe combo.
The bar itself is pretty nice. Fairly wide booze selection, dim but not dark lighting, family style tables, music is noticeable but doesn't hinder conversation. There are even some interesting "food porn" photos on the walls. I'm not restaurant/bar critic, but I think it's a pretty cool spot. A nice escape from the hipster infested 18th and Valencia area. Seriously, living in the Mission, if I see another skinny jean Sanskrit or Japanese tattoo combo, I might lose my shit. Ride your single gears back to Wisconsin and talk about nihilism and vampire-punk bands there. I'm actually writing this at the Haus Coffee House in Mission, so I've got a lot of fodder. Twenty bucks says the barista has a liberal arts degree from Middlebury or something and is more than happy to share her feelings on Eugene Debs or Sylvia Plath. Go ahead and "consume more cool" guys. Anyway, Hog & Rocks is a place where you could bring a nice date and also a place where three Harley bikers could comfortably hang out (they were at my family table next to me).
First thing I noticed were the $9 beer and shot pairings. Sold. Any place that has boilermaker deals is good by me. Plus, if you order a second, it’s only $5. Two beers and two shots for $14. My dad's from Pittsburgh, so it's in the blood. I ordered the Stout and Jameson (Stout and Oysters are a classic Irish pairing...
O'Reilly's Oystefest
...coming up May 14th...case and point)
The menu consists of some clever and trendy offal dishes, pickled and charcuterie jars, and your standard wings, fish & chips, etc. Of course I wasn't there for these things, though.
They have separate menu you specifically mark and hand to the server for which oysters and hams you want and the portion size. They seem to keep a selection of five hams and six oysters on the menu consistently, which is a sign of commitment to, well, it is the name of the place so they better be committed. I imagine, and hope, that seasonality dictates the varieties they carry. Hams can also have a terroir to them, like Oysters. Depending on the aging process and location (like the caves of Andalucia, Spain), flavors can change immensely. I'm not a Salumi Nerd, though. I do know that standard American Hams are quite embarrassing when compared to most European Hams. France, Spain, and Italy all define their hams by aging processes and appellations. We, on the other hand, define ours by percentage of protein and the amount of water added. It's more like ham product than actual ham. However, conscious and artisan ham producers are on the rise in the States. The Hog & Rocks hams were very tasty, topped with some traditional and not-so-traditional accoutrements. I had a Monte Nevado Spanish Serrano with an extra virgin olive oil drizzle and parmesan, San Daniele Italian Prosciutto with fig and balsamic, and a spicy Iowan Picante by La Quercia with roasted pineapple. All were excellent, but I don't think I've ever had a bad artisan ham.
Now, the important part. They had the following served with the traditional mignonette of red wine vinegar, macerated shallots, and cracked pepper.
Hood Canals from Washington, USA
Cranberry Creeks from Washington, USA
Malaspina from British Columbia, Canada
Beausoleil from New Brunswick, Canada
Kusshi, British Columbia, Canada
Point Reyes, California, USA
I ordered two of each, except the Hood Canals. It's a generic name for Oysters from, well, Hood Canal, Washington and I've shucked enough to know that the quality, size, and flavor is inconsistent and often poor. They're pretty mass produced and you know how quality vs. quantity goes.
I'd had each before, except the Malaspina. Beasoleils were on point. It's a mild, shallow-cupped, high liquor for its size, medium salinity and minerality Oyster that always pleases. Even has a nice freshly baked bread aroma to it. It's a great starter Oyster, if you're a beginner. Cranberry Creeks were tasty as well.
The Kusshis were definitely a few sub-par ones the first time around but perfectly delicious on the second round. This could have been from time spent in the walk in, genetics, or environment. Some Oysters just aren't quite as blessed as others, my mother would probably say. Doesn't mean they're bad, just means they're not spectacular. Also, West coast Oysters tend to deteriorate and die much more quickly than East coast oysters due to a weaker adductor muscle. So, keep this in mind when buying retail Oysters at a fish market. East coast Oysters can live up to a month if properly maintained, while West coasts I wouldn't push past two weeks. Does this mean Oysters are an analogy for the U.S. coastal wars? For which has more strength, prowess, resilience, or any other complimentary adjective you want to throw at it? Being from Philly, I'm going to say yes. Or they're just a bunch of assholes that won't tap out. Whatever vantage point works for you.
Back to the Kusshi, though. They're usually an excellent new try if you're a Kumamoto or bust person. They're fascinating little beasts as well. Grown in suspension bags and then literally tumbled in a sort of rock tumbler so they develop stronger and deeper shells. This makes it sweet, clean, crisp, and with a citrus finish. Comparable in size and cup depth to the Kumamoto. Hog & Rocks just didn't deliver on this one the first time around. They most certainly did on the second, though. But hey, I've put a few not %100 amazing oysters out. It's not a deal breaker for a place.
Point Reyes. Okay, here's where I did have an issue. Granted Point Reyes is another generic name for Oysters, but you're a Californian Oysterbar, with one California oyster. I'm fine with that. There are many better oysters out there than Californian ones, quite frankly. Sorry CA, but you've already got plenty more going for you. However, some people stay latched to that "well, we're in California, so the Californian Oysters must be best." Freshness by locale is a major misnomer these days. The freshness of a product depends on the restaurant and its turnover. As in a sushi bar or a seafood market, stick to the more popular places for Oysters. The higher the turnover of product, the fresher it's going to be. Certainly, the purveyor is important, but most quality establishments are getting their products to market and then to restaurant within 36 hours. Even in San Francisco, a Cape Cod Oyster can be fresher than a Tomales Bay Oyster, depending on the situation.
My issue with the Point Reyes Oysters I was given was that they were poorly shucked and creamy. They were cut right through on opening with the gut exposed. Creaminess can be nice sometimes, but when it's to the degree where the Oyster is clearly spawning or about to, don't serve it. It's a bad sign when your flagship Californian Oysters are not culled properly when shucking.
The Malaspina
Now, the thing that eclipsed all else was the Malaspina Oyster from British Columbia. Apparently these Oysters are grown in a secluded bay with practically no residents, far north of Vancouver. Suspect, at best. Oompa-Loompas must have a hand in crafting these little Wonkalicious delights. It was one of the best Oysters I've had in a long time. Many Oyster descriptions claim hints of watermelon, but this one truly has it. Medium cupped but full, plump and juicy, little to no brine with wonderfully overwhelming flavors of watermelon. Okay, so it's not like sucking on a Now & Later or Jolly Rancher. But seriously. An Oyster that tastes like watermelon? Pretty awe-inspiring in my opinion. Hog & Rocks did shuck and present these beauties perfectly, as well. This was the first time I've seen this Oyster, and, seriously, on a free night, I may just call local raw bars to see if they have it and base my dining choice on that. I also recently had Evening Coves, from the same Vancouver Island region. They, too, magically had this watermelon hint to them.
All in all, Hog & Rocks was a nice dining experience. Hams, drinks, and most Oysters were excellent. Servers were very friendly and attentive. It's a nice change up from the traditional Swan's or Hog Island raw bar experience, and one of the few places you can get your Oyster-fix just shy of midnight. Plus, we must not forget, few to no hipsters.
Cheers,
The SF Oyster Nerd
Wednesday, April 06, 2011
Oyster Myths & Truths, The Kumiai
First, I have to apologize for some of the grammar in my last post. I'm kind of a pedantic asshole that corrects others' misuse of adverbs and "who/whom." So, when I went back through and saw a "your" instead of "you're" and a "to" instead of "two," you can imagine my embarrassment. I chalk it up to writing it in the Union Square Apple Store, Hank Moody style, but there's still no excuse. I guess it's not a grammar blog, though. Anyway, this one's coming from Taqueria Guadalajara, since I don't have the interwebs at home.
Oyster Myths
Only eat Oysters in months with an "R"
In my experience, once September and October hit, Oyster consumption by the elderly skyrockets. I don't know any figures, but the number of Stewing and Frying Oysters that I see being sold is borderline absurd. It makes me picture lovely little old ladies whipping up a century-old Oyster Stew recipe or a mayo lathered Oyster Po'Boy just before sitting down to a Murder She Wrote/Matlock combo. This is the case because, after a long and bivalve bereft summer, they can finally eat oysters again.
There are a few reasons for this only months with "R's" myth. One, reliable, refrigerated shipping is less than a century old. Fall and Winter months are chilly and good for shipping a product that needs to be kept in at least sub 45 degree temperatures. And, yes, they all have "R's." You definitely wouldn't have found me lining up for oysters anywhere on a hot, 19th century June day. However, nowadays, food shipments are regulated and reliable. Happily take Grandma's advice and her $7.50 birthday check, just not her advice on Oysters.
Two, Oysters, like bears, fatten up and hibernate over the winter, in a sense. This means that a January Oyster is going to be sweet, plump, and delicious. A June Oyster, that's exhausted its reserves, is going to be watery and bland. Not bad, but just not at its peak. Seasonality. Also, many Oysters, depending on temperatures, spawn during the Summer. This can make for an overly creamy, unpalatable, mushy mess. However, many aquaculturists account for this, and breed/farm accordingly. Check out the Summer Ices from British Columbia.
Finally, bacteria like warmer waters. Red tides and other bacteria breed more quickly and abundantly over the Summer due to higher water temperatures. However, U.S. regulatory agencies keep very close eyes on these situations and aquafarms are held to high standards. Very few cases of infection from sea bacteria actually occur every year. You're probably at higher risk eating peanut butter or spinach.
I say, so long as you know the facts, enjoy Oysters all year round.
Oysters are an Aphrodisiac
Sorry folks, a dozen oysters won't get you laid, through some physiological reaction at least. There is some truth behind it, though. Oysters are high in Zinc, which, when at a deficient level, can cause male impotence. Zinc does aid in the production of testosterone, but not to the degree where Alpine Bays are going to replace those little blue diamonds or Totten Intlets will be on the MLB's banned substance list. The sexual connotation with Oysters is an idea (a damn good one, in my opinion). There is something to sucking back those sweet morsels in a romantic, seaside setting. They make you feel good. Hey, there's even an undeniable, well, "vulvic" likeness in an opened Oyster. I like to believe the Aphrodisiac myth. Makes the whole experience more exciting.
Oysters(Shellfish) are high in Cholesterol
Untrue. Shrimp, lobster, king crab, and squid are all high in cholesterol. Oysters, however, have been unfairly lumped into this group. They are, in fact, very low in cholesterol and a very healthy food.
Oysters are Endangered
Wild Oysters were endangered, and now are mostly decimated. You can find Wild Oysters, but they are harvested in highly supervised areas where the local agencies keep a close eye on populations. 95% of the oysters you eat are aquacultured, and that's not a bad thing. It's not like wild salmon vs. farmed salmon. You never know what you might get with a Wild Oyster in flavor and quality; but a Farmed Oyster is specifically bred, raised, harvested and culled for your plate. Oyster "husbandry" is a great success. Farmed Bivalves are actually under the "Best Choices" category on the Monterrey Bay Aquarium's Seafood Watch List.
You may find a Pearl when eating your Oysters
"Hey buddy, you find any pearls today." "Haha, unfortunately not sir." What I'm really thinking is, "if I had a nickel for every time...well, I could fill the base of a tube sock with them and..." Catch my drift? I get the individual is joking, and it may make your friends chuckle, but it's not cute and kind of annoying to hear day after day. I'm sure everyone knows you're not going to get a pearl in your Oyster, but some specifics couldn't hurt. The species of Oysters we eat do not make pearls. Well, not the kind you give/get on your 12th or 30th anniversary (yea, I looked that one up). Most Oysters consumed raw are farmed under conditions preventing pearl making. If it does happen, the pearls usually come out looking like nasty little garbanzo beans, bee-bees, or rabbit pellets. Most mollusks can make pearls, since it it is defense mechanism to a foreign material in its flesh. However, very few are prized. Pearl making oysters (prized ones) are a South Asian species that we do not eat in the U.S. A good portion of these are artificially planted and farmed, as well. I have, however, heard stories of people finding very rare and highly valued pearls. But hey, I've also heard stories about Nessie and Big Foot, so who knows.
Oyster Truths
Oysters are Alive
I damn well hope so. Any shellfish has to be cooked, frozen, or consumed raw while still alive or recently killed. You never want to eat dead shellfish. Since shellfish has little to no fat and is almost pure protein, they begin to deteriorate very quickly once dead and will produce dangerous bacterias. How do you know it's alive? Well, with any Oyster, if its bill is open and does not close when tapping it, it's dead. It will also make a hollow sound when tapped. Toss it and move on. I hate to pander, but, don't freak out about the whole alive thing, either. The Oyster does die when it's cut and opened, and, not much of a nervous system is going on anyway. Pain free for them and guilt-free for us, in my opinion.
Oysters are Good for You
I don't eat healthily, at all. What I want, when I want. There's a fatty 1000+ calorie burrito sitting in front of me as I'm writing this. Intemperance of youth, I suppose. I'm sure once it starts catching up to me, I'll take action, hopefully. However, as yet another selling point for Oysters, they're very healthy. Whether calorie counting, vitamin seeking, or low-fatting it, Oysters deliver. A dozen raw Oysters has around 100 calories, 120 at most. They are very high in protein and extremely low in saturated fats. On board of the new omega-3 fatty acids craze? Well, Oysters are packing those, as well (not like a piece of salmon, though). Raw food movement? Check. Whenever something is cooked, it begins to lose some of its naturally occurring nutrients. The longer you cook it, the more you lose. A raw Oyster can deliver a hefty amount of vitamins A, B, C, D, calcium, iron, and zinc for its tiny size. Eat them. Delicious and healthy.
Oysters are good for Hangovers
Oh thank god yes. Among a number of reasons hangovers occur, one is a Vitamin B deficiency. Our little friends are packed full of Vitamin B. It's actually a nice perk of being a shucker. Rough night doesn't have to equal a rough day when I go into work. Pop a couple of them open and I'm feeling great again. My ideal Sunday, after a rough Saturday night, is a dozen Wellfleets, greasy bacon and eggs, and, of course, a few bloody marys. I'd put Hair-of-the-Dog under my truths, too.
Oysters help the Environment
Okay, this one legitimately deserves its own post. But, I'm going to use it as a quick transition into the following link. Oysters filter around 50 gallons of water a day. They are natural water filterers, cleaning up pollution in numerous bays around the States. Oyster revival, sanctuary, recovery, protection etc. movements have started picking up in New York, Boston, and the Chesapeake. Well, here's one of yours, San Francisco.
The Watershed Project
I know how it's the San Franciscan way to drink, eat, and feel good about it since your helping a cause (that's not a jab, I'll be in attendance). So, Bubbles & Bivalves will be right up your charitable alleys. The idea's that The Watershed Project is trying to restore a natural Oysterbed of Olympias (the only native oyster) and keep it protected in the Northern San Francisco bay. Optimistically, it will be the first of many. The author who inspired much of my interest in Oysters will be speaking, as well. I look forward to seeing you there.
My Favorite Oyster Right Now
Kumiai - this gigas Oyster comes from Guerrero Negro Lago by Ensenada, Baja California, Mexico. Don't freak out cause it's from Mexico. I hate that xenophobic bullshit Americans have. We're the ones producing more e. coli in our factory farms than any other country. Plus, it's not like it's coming from the favelas of DF. It's grown in pristine, biosphere reserve managed waters. However, aside from that, I'm furious that I just found this Oyster and did not know about it when I was in Ensenada 9 months ago. It would have been on the top of my list of places to visit. Also, fun little aside, it's named after the Kumiai people, the indigenous inhabitants of the Baja Peninsula.
It's medium sized, deep cupped, has very firm, plump flesh and an excellent alkaline texture that stays on your palate. Some people have found it overwhelmingly briny, but you and I both know they didn't chew. It is very briny up front, very, which I happen to like. But it's also a happy marriage between East coast salinity and West coast sweetness. Once you've savored that ocean-fresh brine, bite and a world of cucumber fruitiness comes flying in. If you see them, try them.
I've got a review on a Mission District Oyster House, Hog & Rocks, coming soon. In addition, please send me suggestions for places to try out in the Bay Area. I'm new and would love some ideas.
Cheers,
The SF Oyster Nerd
Oyster Myths
Only eat Oysters in months with an "R"
In my experience, once September and October hit, Oyster consumption by the elderly skyrockets. I don't know any figures, but the number of Stewing and Frying Oysters that I see being sold is borderline absurd. It makes me picture lovely little old ladies whipping up a century-old Oyster Stew recipe or a mayo lathered Oyster Po'Boy just before sitting down to a Murder She Wrote/Matlock combo. This is the case because, after a long and bivalve bereft summer, they can finally eat oysters again.
There are a few reasons for this only months with "R's" myth. One, reliable, refrigerated shipping is less than a century old. Fall and Winter months are chilly and good for shipping a product that needs to be kept in at least sub 45 degree temperatures. And, yes, they all have "R's." You definitely wouldn't have found me lining up for oysters anywhere on a hot, 19th century June day. However, nowadays, food shipments are regulated and reliable. Happily take Grandma's advice and her $7.50 birthday check, just not her advice on Oysters.
Two, Oysters, like bears, fatten up and hibernate over the winter, in a sense. This means that a January Oyster is going to be sweet, plump, and delicious. A June Oyster, that's exhausted its reserves, is going to be watery and bland. Not bad, but just not at its peak. Seasonality. Also, many Oysters, depending on temperatures, spawn during the Summer. This can make for an overly creamy, unpalatable, mushy mess. However, many aquaculturists account for this, and breed/farm accordingly. Check out the Summer Ices from British Columbia.
Finally, bacteria like warmer waters. Red tides and other bacteria breed more quickly and abundantly over the Summer due to higher water temperatures. However, U.S. regulatory agencies keep very close eyes on these situations and aquafarms are held to high standards. Very few cases of infection from sea bacteria actually occur every year. You're probably at higher risk eating peanut butter or spinach.
I say, so long as you know the facts, enjoy Oysters all year round.
Oysters are an Aphrodisiac
Sorry folks, a dozen oysters won't get you laid, through some physiological reaction at least. There is some truth behind it, though. Oysters are high in Zinc, which, when at a deficient level, can cause male impotence. Zinc does aid in the production of testosterone, but not to the degree where Alpine Bays are going to replace those little blue diamonds or Totten Intlets will be on the MLB's banned substance list. The sexual connotation with Oysters is an idea (a damn good one, in my opinion). There is something to sucking back those sweet morsels in a romantic, seaside setting. They make you feel good. Hey, there's even an undeniable, well, "vulvic" likeness in an opened Oyster. I like to believe the Aphrodisiac myth. Makes the whole experience more exciting.
Oysters(Shellfish) are high in Cholesterol
Untrue. Shrimp, lobster, king crab, and squid are all high in cholesterol. Oysters, however, have been unfairly lumped into this group. They are, in fact, very low in cholesterol and a very healthy food.
Oysters are Endangered
Wild Oysters were endangered, and now are mostly decimated. You can find Wild Oysters, but they are harvested in highly supervised areas where the local agencies keep a close eye on populations. 95% of the oysters you eat are aquacultured, and that's not a bad thing. It's not like wild salmon vs. farmed salmon. You never know what you might get with a Wild Oyster in flavor and quality; but a Farmed Oyster is specifically bred, raised, harvested and culled for your plate. Oyster "husbandry" is a great success. Farmed Bivalves are actually under the "Best Choices" category on the Monterrey Bay Aquarium's Seafood Watch List.
You may find a Pearl when eating your Oysters
"Hey buddy, you find any pearls today." "Haha, unfortunately not sir." What I'm really thinking is, "if I had a nickel for every time...well, I could fill the base of a tube sock with them and..." Catch my drift? I get the individual is joking, and it may make your friends chuckle, but it's not cute and kind of annoying to hear day after day. I'm sure everyone knows you're not going to get a pearl in your Oyster, but some specifics couldn't hurt. The species of Oysters we eat do not make pearls. Well, not the kind you give/get on your 12th or 30th anniversary (yea, I looked that one up). Most Oysters consumed raw are farmed under conditions preventing pearl making. If it does happen, the pearls usually come out looking like nasty little garbanzo beans, bee-bees, or rabbit pellets. Most mollusks can make pearls, since it it is defense mechanism to a foreign material in its flesh. However, very few are prized. Pearl making oysters (prized ones) are a South Asian species that we do not eat in the U.S. A good portion of these are artificially planted and farmed, as well. I have, however, heard stories of people finding very rare and highly valued pearls. But hey, I've also heard stories about Nessie and Big Foot, so who knows.
Oyster Truths
Oysters are Alive
I damn well hope so. Any shellfish has to be cooked, frozen, or consumed raw while still alive or recently killed. You never want to eat dead shellfish. Since shellfish has little to no fat and is almost pure protein, they begin to deteriorate very quickly once dead and will produce dangerous bacterias. How do you know it's alive? Well, with any Oyster, if its bill is open and does not close when tapping it, it's dead. It will also make a hollow sound when tapped. Toss it and move on. I hate to pander, but, don't freak out about the whole alive thing, either. The Oyster does die when it's cut and opened, and, not much of a nervous system is going on anyway. Pain free for them and guilt-free for us, in my opinion.
Oysters are Good for You
I don't eat healthily, at all. What I want, when I want. There's a fatty 1000+ calorie burrito sitting in front of me as I'm writing this. Intemperance of youth, I suppose. I'm sure once it starts catching up to me, I'll take action, hopefully. However, as yet another selling point for Oysters, they're very healthy. Whether calorie counting, vitamin seeking, or low-fatting it, Oysters deliver. A dozen raw Oysters has around 100 calories, 120 at most. They are very high in protein and extremely low in saturated fats. On board of the new omega-3 fatty acids craze? Well, Oysters are packing those, as well (not like a piece of salmon, though). Raw food movement? Check. Whenever something is cooked, it begins to lose some of its naturally occurring nutrients. The longer you cook it, the more you lose. A raw Oyster can deliver a hefty amount of vitamins A, B, C, D, calcium, iron, and zinc for its tiny size. Eat them. Delicious and healthy.
Oysters are good for Hangovers
Oh thank god yes. Among a number of reasons hangovers occur, one is a Vitamin B deficiency. Our little friends are packed full of Vitamin B. It's actually a nice perk of being a shucker. Rough night doesn't have to equal a rough day when I go into work. Pop a couple of them open and I'm feeling great again. My ideal Sunday, after a rough Saturday night, is a dozen Wellfleets, greasy bacon and eggs, and, of course, a few bloody marys. I'd put Hair-of-the-Dog under my truths, too.
Oysters help the Environment
Okay, this one legitimately deserves its own post. But, I'm going to use it as a quick transition into the following link. Oysters filter around 50 gallons of water a day. They are natural water filterers, cleaning up pollution in numerous bays around the States. Oyster revival, sanctuary, recovery, protection etc. movements have started picking up in New York, Boston, and the Chesapeake. Well, here's one of yours, San Francisco.
The Watershed Project
I know how it's the San Franciscan way to drink, eat, and feel good about it since your helping a cause (that's not a jab, I'll be in attendance). So, Bubbles & Bivalves will be right up your charitable alleys. The idea's that The Watershed Project is trying to restore a natural Oysterbed of Olympias (the only native oyster) and keep it protected in the Northern San Francisco bay. Optimistically, it will be the first of many. The author who inspired much of my interest in Oysters will be speaking, as well. I look forward to seeing you there.
My Favorite Oyster Right Now
Kumiai - this gigas Oyster comes from Guerrero Negro Lago by Ensenada, Baja California, Mexico. Don't freak out cause it's from Mexico. I hate that xenophobic bullshit Americans have. We're the ones producing more e. coli in our factory farms than any other country. Plus, it's not like it's coming from the favelas of DF. It's grown in pristine, biosphere reserve managed waters. However, aside from that, I'm furious that I just found this Oyster and did not know about it when I was in Ensenada 9 months ago. It would have been on the top of my list of places to visit. Also, fun little aside, it's named after the Kumiai people, the indigenous inhabitants of the Baja Peninsula.
It's medium sized, deep cupped, has very firm, plump flesh and an excellent alkaline texture that stays on your palate. Some people have found it overwhelmingly briny, but you and I both know they didn't chew. It is very briny up front, very, which I happen to like. But it's also a happy marriage between East coast salinity and West coast sweetness. Once you've savored that ocean-fresh brine, bite and a world of cucumber fruitiness comes flying in. If you see them, try them.
I've got a review on a Mission District Oyster House, Hog & Rocks, coming soon. In addition, please send me suggestions for places to try out in the Bay Area. I'm new and would love some ideas.
Cheers,
The SF Oyster Nerd
Monday, April 04, 2011
The San Francisco Oyster Nerd
So, at the behest of some customers I've chatted with over the past few months, I've decided to start a blog on Oysters, more specifically Oysters in San Francisco. I'm relatively new to this city and got a job as a local shucker. There's a lot of ignorance in this crassostrea culture, and I've found that many people are excited and intrigued to have a little light shed on it.
To begin, the food culture that exists in SF is like none other I've encountered. So many people conscious of where their food comes from, how it's raised, seasonality, sustainability, etc. It's almost overkill and annoying when you hear people trying to "one-up" each other on the authenticity or conscience-clearing nature of their most recent culinary adventure. Come on. Nobody likes Granolas. But, I must say that it's refreshing to be able to discuss food history, politics, and sustainability with the average individual in this city.
With this fortunate situation, it's very easy to engage people with the idea of Oysters. "Do you like wine tasting?" I don't have a response for the bar-pariah who says no (I'd be astounded if anyone ever does). Well, Oysters are like wines. You can take the exact same Pinot grape, grow it in Napa and Australia, and get to completely different products. Terroir, right? The grapes take on the flavor of the land. Oysters are exactly the same. You take the exact same species, grow it in different waters, and the taste is completely different. Odds are, when you go into a raw bar, there are only two, maybe three, different species of oysters. This is even true of a bar that carries twenty different varieties. We only eat 6 different species of oysters, primarily the first two.
Virginica - standard East coast oyster i.e. a Blue Point, Malpeque, Wellfleet.
Gigas - standard West coast oyster (imported from Japan a century ago) i.e. Miyagi, Hood Canals, Fanny Bay
Sikemea - your beloved little gem called the Kumamoto (I'm sure you're all familiar)
Conchaphila - the elusive Olympia, only Pacific Native American oyster still alive today. SF Bay was covered in them before the 49ers over-fished them in a few decades.
Edulis - those beautiful, flat shell, strongly flavored Belons
Saccostrea - Rock Oysters from Australia and New Zealand. Very difficult to find.
So, when you're eating a Hog Island Sweetwater from Tomales Bay next to a Fanny Bay from British Columbia, you're eating the exact same oyster. The larvae was exactly the same when it was planted, just raised in a different area. Thus, the flavors are immensely different. A true example of the unadulterated flavors nature has to offer us. Oysters are one of those last little food bastions, fending off the high fructose corn syrups and MSGs of the appalling American diet at the gates. Get out and enjoy the natural tastes that the ocean has to offer and put away the Individually Quick Frozen Tortilla Crusted Tilapia (you should actually stop eating Tilapia all together. I'll explain later.)
I figured I'd give a few Oyster Eating Guidelines as the finish of my first post. Admittedly, they're your oysters when you eat them, so enjoy them however you choose. However, your paying 3 dollars for just a little bite. Why wreck the subtle flavors you've just purchased.
1. NO COCKTAIL SAUCE OR HOT SAUCE. Yes, if I'm sitting down to 2 dozen of the exact same oysters, I like hot sauce as much as the next guy. But time after time I see people drop $36 on a plate of mixed oysters just to ruin it with these culinary assassins. You wouldn't put ketchup on a New York Strip or chew Dentine while tasting a 2006 Toulouse Pinot Noir.
2. JUST A LITTLE BIT OF ACIDITY. A touch of the house mignonette or a little lemon can bring out a lot of the flavors of the oysters by beginning to break down it's proteins and cut the salt. I do not prefer, but it can be nice while still allowing the oyster's flavor to come through. Just a drop, don't drown it.
3. DON'T DUMP THE LIQUOR. Time after time, I see people tilting their oysters to dump the liquor (juice inside the oyster) out before eating. It's baffling, and I have no idea where people learned to do so. This is the essence of the water the oyster is from. Together, the oyster flesh and juice give you a true merroir (flavor-of-the-sea) experience of the oysters home. Independent of one another, you're going to lose the whole experience.
4. CHEW YOUR OYSTERS. So many times the only response people have to tasting an oyster is "Oh, very salty." Well, if you shoot it down the back of your throat and just taste the liquor it's sitting in, then yes, all you will taste is salt. The depth of flavor in oysters is not released until you give it a few chews. You'll be surprised when that salty Drake's Bay oyster finishes with hints of crisp lettuce and bitter herb.
5. BE ADVENTUROUS. So many people come in and order 12 Kumamotos over and over again. That has to be boring. I get it, they're good. But do you only order vanilla ice cream or only eat california rolls? If you do, then you're probably the person that flippantly disregards guideline #1 and I'm not sure how you got to my blog in the first place. Order and try as many different oysters as you possibly can. Yes, you'll dislike some. But, often, you'll find a little gem that you would have never tasted if you'd stuck to your standard order. (Just a few weeks ago I introduced my sister to her new favorite oyster). When I go out for oysters, I order every single one that I do not recognize or have never tasted.
Follow these guidelines and I guarantee your eyes will open to the wonder of oysters. You'll come to appreciate them much more than you ever had. I think that's enough for my first post. Plenty more to come on specific oyster bars, drink pairings, new favorites I've just tried, and some other random mulluscophilia.
Cheers,
The SF Oyster Nerd
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