Showing posts with label Fish Sandwich. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Fish Sandwich. Show all posts

Thursday, June 18, 2026

Off-Boardwalk: Atlantic City Seafood

2026 Atlantic City - TripAdvisor

We spent a couple of days vacationing in Atlantic City recently.  Our last few trips were a bit extravagant, so we decided to pump the brakes.  I couldn't justify flying toddlers to Europe three years in a row.  Admittedly, "Atlantic City family vacation" sounds like an oxymoron.  What could we possibly do with a 5 year-old and 3 year-old in a place built on slots, shots, and sinny-sin-sin?  However, as I scoped out options, Atlantic City kept topping the charts.  Mini golf, roller skating, arcade games, go-karts, indoor waterparks, a local aquarium.  Not bad for a 90-minute drive.  It was the off-season too, so everything was quite reasonably priced.  Most importantly, my better half has become a poker jones recently, and the dates aligned with a Texas Hold'em tournament at the Borgata.  Don't worry — no 1-800-GAMBLER calls...yet...

It's a city that has always fascinated me, too.  I grew up spending summers at the Jersey Shore in small towns like Wildwood and Stone Harbor.  Atlantic City, only a short drive north, always had this grown-ups-only mystery and mystique.  I'd be at the beach house playing Monopoly while my older cousins headed to the actual Boardwalk & Park Place for a night of big-kid fun.  Even when I got older and exposed to the A.C. nightlife, my interest only grew.  How could so much glitz, glamour, vice, crime, and everything in between materialize in a modest four square miles?  How did an 1870s agricultural town of fewer than 1,000 residents transform into a bustling city of 60,000+ by 1910?  How did it collapse just 50 years later, rebuild, then collapse again?  Most curiously, how did all this culinarily play out on Atlantic City dining tables?

Absecon Island, where Atlantic City is located, was seasonally inhabited by the Lenape people for millennia.  
Absecon actually comes from the Algonquian word absegami, meaning "little water."  The island wasn't settled by Europeans until 1783.  It modestly grew over the next few decades, mostly as a farming community.  However, in the 1850s, Dr. Jonathan Pitney, now known as 'the Father of Atlantic City,' wanted to make Absecon a health retreat for affluent city folk.  He designed a large-scale resort and organized the construction of the Camden and Atlantic Railroad, allowing visitors streamlined access.  By the 1880s, the town grew well beyond a health retreat and became a popular summer vacation destination.  Dozens of luxury resorts, fine-dining restaurants, saloons, sideshows, entertainment piers, and even gambling dens and cabaret clubs were built.  Atlantic City had officially found its industry, and that industry was tourism & vice.  One former Atlantic City politician said it best:

"If the people who came to town had wanted Bible readings, we'd have given 'em that. But nobody ever asked for Bible readings. They wanted booze, broads, and gambling, so that's what we gave 'em."  

Al Capone & Nucky Johnson -
1929 Atlantic City Mafia Conference
Atlantic City’s party scene continued to grow through the 1910s and barely blinked at Prohibition. If anything, the city doubled down.  Politicians, like Nucky Johnson of Boardwalk Empire repute, supported organized crime and facilitated bootleg liquor imports, underground distilleries, brothels, illegal casinos, and speakeasies.  While the rest of the country was going through a dry spell, Atlantic City was entering its golden age.  Elaborate raw bars, opulent chop houses, champagne & caviar service at every turn.  The Miss America Pageant was established in September 1921 and the convention center built in 1924.  Through the 1950s, A.C. was America’s premier seaside playground, drawing millions with its Boardwalk glamour and nonstop nightlife.  

However, by the 1960s, the tide began to turn as the rise of air travel siphoned tourists to newer destinations like Miami and Las Vegas.  Atlantic City, as a town almost exclusively dependent on tourism, was left in dramatic economic decline.  As a financial lifeline, New Jersey approved casino gambling in the city in 1976.  This brought bursts of cash and visitors, but only for an elite few.  Developers built destination casino-resorts focused on keeping guests on-site.  Tourists shop, dine, spa, relax, and gamble without ever leaving the resorts.  In the worst cases, investors exploited the opportunity for personal gain and spectacle with debt-fueled projects they had no intention of ever settling.  Just look at what our current president did to Atlantic City in the 80s and 90s.  Sound similar to our current Orwellian state of affairs?  “Those who do not learn from history are doomed to repeat it.”  Either way, local businesses and residents, to this day, see nominal benefit from the casinos, though are ultimately still dependent on them. 

Things got worse in the 2000s when state and local legislatures began legalizing gambling in the surrounding areas.  Atlantic City's status as the exclusive East Coast casino destination was gone.  Pair that with the Great Recession and businesses started shuttering left and right.  Four of the major casinos in the city declared bankruptcy in 2014 alone.  Today, post-pandemic Atlantic City remains a place of contrasts.  Still anchored by casinos, it's checkered with palatial resorts and decrepit buildings in their shadows.  The wealthy helicopter in for boxing matches, bachelor parties, and lavish dinners at The Palm while year-round residents contend with persistent poverty and decades of discriminatory development.  So, in tackling my Atlantic City seafood tour, I had one firm rule — classy, cutty, or anything in between, it had to be a local, independent establishment.  No private equity-backed buffets. No Margaritavilles or Ruth's Chris.  No casino restaurant groups engineered in a boardroom three states away.  This trip was strictly Off-Boardwalk!

Knife & Fork Inn + Dock's Oyster House

Atlantic City is arguably most famous, or infamous, for its Roaring '20s era.  The Volstead Act was technically on the books, but martinis still freely flowed next to 22 oz. ribeyes on silver platters.  Politicians, gangsters, and celebrities all rubbed elbows in glittering dining rooms or cabaret clubs.  So, where better to start my tour than at two restaurants that were not only witnesses to Atlantic City’s heyday, but institutions that helped define it?

  Opened in 1912, The Knife & Fork Inn is a time capsule that awkwardly sits at the corner of Pacific and Atlantic Avenue in Atlantic City's Chelsea neighborhood.  You can immediately tell the surrounding area has gone through several iterations, but The Knife & Fork has remained architecturally unchanged.  Originally a private men's club for the town's power brokers and social elite, it remains one of the clearest surviving landmarks of Atlantic City's golden age.  It was even a frequent filming location for Boardwalk Empire.



It’s got all the familiar Gilded Age fare: dry-aged steaks, seafood towers, veal chops, and classic French sauces.  But they’re best known for the lobster thermidor — claw, tail, and knuckle meat folded into a rich cream sauce with herbs, white wine, and mustard, stuffed back into the shell, topped with gruyère or parmesan, then broiled until bubbly and golden brown.  How could I pass up that kind of iconic indulgence, especially paired with a petite filet mignon and grilled asparagus?  And it was great.  Rich, creamy, and decadent in all the right ways. The only real difference between Knife & Fork in 1920 and today is the price tag.  You may want to open an escrow account before making a reservation.

A little less than a mile northwest is an even older restaurant: Dock's Oyster House.  It started in 1897 as a modest oyster saloon selling local seafood.  With Harry "Dock" Dougherty's dedication to cleanliness and quality (a rare thing for the early 1900s), Dock's quickly grew in popularity and expanded.  It's now on its fourth generation of family ownership and widely loved as an Atantic City institution.  The Doughertys even purchased the Knife & Fork Inn in 2005.

Dock’s menu seamlessly threads the needle of classic but contemporary, upscale yet accessible.  Surf & turf and oyster stew sit comfortably alongside pineapple salmon poke and sesame-wasabi tuna.  They also offer a rotating selection of more than ten oysters, many sourced from South Jersey bays and inlets.  I ordered four oysters à la carte and a fluke crudo.  The Ludlam Bay oyster stood out in particular, with a savory brine and velvety texture that tasted almost like ocean butter.  The crudo was equally impressive — fresh and snappy, balanced by bitter greens, pickled red onion, and a bright herbes de provence vinaigrette.  Pro tip: stop by Dock's Oyster House for happy hour from 4 to 6 p.m. daily.  The bar is buzzing, the live pianist is popping-off, and many of the prices are literally halved. 


Cafe 2825 + Tony's Baltimore Grill

Atlantic City is a story of immigrants, and few embody this more than Southern Italians who came in the late 19th century.  Sure, everyone knows, even glamorizes the aforementioned mafiosos.  But thousands of Italian construction workers, dishwashers, fishmongers, bakers, dockhands, cobblers, cooks, and street vendors were foundational in building the city, literally and figuratively.  A.C. is also a story of upward mobility.  Those very same dishwashers, dockhands, or street vendors became the next generation's restaurateurs, contractors, or politicians.  As such, Atlantic City has been a red sauce town for over a century.  In my research, Chef Vola's kept coming up as the go-to Italian spot.  It's a shame that reservations are tougher than Taylor Swift tickets.  Luckily, there's another local instituation many say is even better.

Opened in 1986 by an Italian-American family from Brooklyn, Cafe 2825 sits on the border of Atlantic City's Chelsea and Ducktown neighborhoods.  Ducktown is actually Atlantic City's historic "Little Italy."  2825's got all the flair and fare of your typical, high-brow Italian-American eatery.  Tuxedoed serving staff, candles in Chianti bottles, black & whites of Sinatra, DiMaggio, and La Guardia all over the walls.  In true Sicilian style, all the recipes were directly sourced or inspired by the owner's mother and nonna.  Rigatoni with Sunday gravy, veal parmesan the size of dinner plates, housemade mozzerella and ricotta, Caesar salad prepared tableside.  I, however, was there for one thing: clams in red sauce. 



The most common American name for Italian-style tomato sauce, marinara, comes from the Italian word marinero, meaning mariner or sailor.  Some say it started with 16th century seafarers bringing tomatoes back from the New World to Italy.  During the lengthy returns, they'd mash up tomatoes, garlic, and dried herbs with olive oil and throw in any frutti di mare they caught.  Others say it was dubbed marinara after it became the preferred dish for merchants and dockworkers at Southern Italian ports.  Whatever the orgin, no dish better epitomizes Jersey Italian cuisine than clams in red sauce over pasta.  Briny, savory clam juice released by the little necks during cooking marries perfectly with the bright, garlicky tomato sauce.  Add in chopped cherrystones, toss it with al dente linguini and some fresh herbs and 👩‍🍳😙🤌.  Cafe 2825's version with pappardelle was spot on.  Funnily enough, it wasn't even on the menu at the time, but they were kind enough to make it by request.  That kind of accomodation says way more about Cafe 2825 than I ever could.  Highly recommend for a special night out.     
 
Literally right across the street is another A.C. stalwart, Tony's Baltimore Grill.  Dating back to 1927, Tony's feels like a preserved slice of mid-century Atlantic City history rather than a restaurant & bar.  Neon beer signs, dark wood paneling, dingy lighting, cracked vinyl booths with tabletop jukeboxes.  I think I even saw a Marlboro cigarette machine in one corner.  While the surrounding casinos, resorts, even restuarants are constantly reinventing themselves, Tony's is unapologetically steadfast in its dive bar identity.  In short, it's the kind of place Anthony Bourdain loved.

In terms of cuisine, Tony's is your classic Italian-American red sauce joint.  Spaghetti & meatballs, mozzerella sticks, wings, eggplant and chicken parm subs.  They've got red & white clam sauces, fried shrimp, and crab cakes on the menu too, hence the "Baltimore" portion of the name.  Though difficult to verify, Tony's is also widely credited with being the first establishment to serve pizza in Atlantic City.  With that in mind, I couldn't pass up Tony's clams casino pizza.  Sautéed green peppers, garlic & onions with chopped clams and smoky bacon on top of melted mozzerella and a crispy, pub-style crust.  Absolutely delicious.  And while "clams casino pizza" might sound strange, don't pass judgment until you've tried it.  Most foods are admittedly subjective and a matter of personal taste; this pizza is not.  If you aren't a fan after the first bite, you probably should consult a medical professional.  Might be an olfactory processing or taste bud issue that's best left to trained ENT specialists.   


Kelsey's & Kim's Southern Cafe + Yardy Real Jamaican

Atlantic City is the story of many migrant groups, not just Italians.  Filipino, Puerto Rican, Korean, Honduran, Mexican.  In stark contrast to neighboring Jersey Shore towns, the largest demographic in the city is currently Hispanic, and over 30% of full-time residents are foreign-born.  Each group has put its own culinary stamp on the city and is undoubtedly deserving of its own exploration.  Just check out this caldo de mariscos from El Tacuate.  Few have had such an impact on the city as the African-American population, though. 

In a way, everyone in Atlantic City is an immigrant (save any current Lenape residents), and African-Americans played a role in the city even before its formal founding in the 1850s.  However, the Great Migration in the early 1900s saw thousands of African-Americans leave the Jim Crow South for the promise of prosperity in the North.  Atlantic City actually advertised job opportunities directly to Black Southerners.  Sadly, though, upon arrival, they faced the very same discrimination and segregation they'd sought to flee.  Resilient as always, African-Americans developed their own Atlantic City community in the Northside, filled with successful Black-owned businesses, restaurants, jazz clubs, and even their own beach.  Desegregation and casino development drastically changed the community from its mid-centruy heyday, but there are still vestiges and heritage establishments around today.

Located in modern-day Midtown, Kelsey's Supper Club has been echoing the historic Northside spirt of Atlantic City since 2012.  Soul food paired with live jazz and R&B creates a vibrant, community-centered atmosphere enjoyed by tourists and locals alike.  They were even granted an award last year by the city's "Keep It Local" campaign.  Unfortunately, their hours of operation didn't align with our vacation dates.  Fortunately though, Kelsey & Kim's Southern Cafe has been serving up the same cuisine in A.C.'s Northern Inlet neighborhood since 2009. 

We arrived early on a Sunday morning to good signs and good vibes.  There was already a lengthy queue of guests in their finest church clothes waiting to be seated.  The decor is modest, warm, and welcoming — exactly what you want from a comfort food establishment.  As for the menu, they've got all the Soul food staples: fried chicken, black eyed peas, sweet potato pie.  You know I had to get the fried catfish and shrimp combo, of course, with a side of collard greens and rice & gravy.  The catfish and shrimp were great.  Sweet, golden, crispy, perfectly seasoned.  My 4 year-old ended up eating more than I did.  Those collards, though 🤤.  Salty, earthy, and slightly bitter with tons of savory, braised ham hock.  The greens alone are worth the trip. 



More recently, Atlantic City has welcomed several waves of Afro-Caribbean immigrants.  Haitian, Dominican, Guyanese.  There are Boricua and Garifuna churches, markets, barbershops, and more all around the city.  And right in Midtown is a gem that's been dishing up some of the best curried goat and braised oxtail around for over a decade - Yardy Real Jamaican.  I won't lie, Yardy's feels like your typical corner takeaway in a pretty cutty part of A.C.  Plenty of weathered faces, bulletproof glass, and check-cashing storefronts around.  They've even got the hallmark patrons-only restrooms and a picture board menu of several dishes.  That said, it's perfectly safe and fine.  Just stay smart and enjoy some of the best beef patties on the East Coast.

I was there for one dish and one dish alone: ackee & saltfish.  A common misconception is that Jamaica's national dish is jerk chicken, but it's actually ackee & saltfish.  Ackee is a tropical fruit native to West Africa that is widely cultivated and prized across Jamaica.  Like a lot of other tropical produce, such as taro or cassava, ackee is actually toxic unless properly prepared.  When cooked, it's mild and slightly nutty with a soft, buttery texture, almost like scrambled eggs.  In terms of the dish, salt-preserved cod is reconstituted and sautéed with onions, peppers, tomatoes, and herbs.  The ackee is then gently folded in towards the end of cooking to maintain its delicate texture.  At Yardy's, they served it in a classic Jamaican breakfast-style with fried dumplings and plantains.  Candidly, it's not a dish for the culinarily fainthearted.  Savory but very strong saltcod flavors mixed in with creamy ackee and spicy scotch bonnets.  The sweet plantains and doughy dumplings cut it well, but it is intense.  Delightfully intense if you like those flavors, and I highly recommend Yardy's version as it's one of the best I've had.  My kids crushed their chicken wings too.    


Barbera Seafood Market

I often joke that casinos are some of the most beautiful places on the earth.  It always raises eyebrows as gaudy gambling palaces like Trump's Taj Mahal immediately come to mind.  The joke is that I most certainly do not mean aesthetically beautiful, but rather culturally or even philosophically.  I can't think of many places beyond a craps table where you'd see a grandma from Toledo, a salesman from Tokyo, and a gangster from Trenton celebrating and high-fiving each other.  Casinos are living, breathing examples of how we're all fundamentally the same, and that vice is one of the few things truly blind to race, color, and creed.

The culinary equivalent of this in Atlantic City is Barbera Seafood Market.  Located in Ducktown, right across from the iconic White House Subs, Barbera has been providing some of the best seafood in town since 1919.  Also on its fourth generation of family-ownership, Barbera has witnessed and weathered over a century of constant cultural and economic change across the city.  They were even honored with the Keep It Local Resiliency Award last year.  The key to their success is a straightforward formula: fresh fish, fair prices, and personal service.  They've even kept their fried fish & sandwich carryout prices the same since the 90s.  Like, seriously, a fried flounder combo platter is just $8.99!  
   
This is why Barbera Seafood is so loved across the city.  Top notch quality and customer care are great, but abundantly available around town.  I'm sure the $65 sea bass at Gordon Ramsay's is tasty and served by amazing staff.  However, it's the affordability that makes Barbera special.  And not just because you can save a few dollars on your diver sea scallops.  That's definitely appreciated, but their prices make it a truly welcoming, diverse, and almost egalitarian market.  You can be in line behind a Manhattan investment banker purchasing lobster tails and a local housekeeper buying smelts with SNAP benefits.  The stark wealth contrasts that often define Atlantic City seem to fade away here.  Fresh, healthy seafood and friendly service should be accessible to all, and Barbera has become an Atlantic City pillar by embodying exactly that.


I was there for the $3.99 whiting sandwich.  A humble fish, breaded and fried, then served in a foil-wrapped burger bun with your choice of cocktail, tartar, or hot sauce.  Honestly, it was the most nostalgic bite I've had in a long time.  While at college in Baltimore, I of course always wanted seafood, but could rarely afford it.  As such, I spent a lot of time trying out all the local lake trout take-outs around the city.  I had some of the worst fried whiting sandwiches around, but also some of the best.  Luckily, Barbera's was the latter.  A generous portion of crispy, flaky whiting fillet tucked into a soft roll with ample amounts of Texas Pete's.  So simple yet so satisfying.  Definitely check out Barbera's Market for a genuine taste of Atlantic City, not just the seafood but the city's character as well.

Atlantic City delivered everything I hoped for: family fun, fascinating history, and, of course, several great meals.  It's a city that feels small enough to eat your way through in a few days, yet the deeper you explore, the more you realize you've only scratched the surface. We'll definitely be back soon, so let me know in the comments which spots I missed.
 
Cheers,
The SF Oyster Nerd

  

Sunday, March 28, 2021

The Humble Fish Sandwich

As a kid, I always looked forward to Fridays during Lent.  Strange, as there's nothing especially glamorous about Lent.  In fact, it's quite the opposite.  Being raised Irish Catholic, Lent was meant to be a solemn time of discipline, self-reflection, and sacrifice in preparation for Jesus' crucifixion on Good Friday.  Not exactly uplifting or exciting.  However, part of that sacrifice was abstaining from meat on Fridays.  And, growing up in relative privilege, that meant every Friday for 40 days we were having one of two things for dinner - cheese pizza or, as I usually hoped, seafood.  We even joked that Lent was a literal godsend for any financially struggling pizza parlors or fish markets. 

In adulthood, I'm not exactly observant of my religious roots.  I more consider myself to be, well, culturally Catholic best describes it.  That's a whole other conversation though.  However, if there's a Friday fish fry or seafood feast to be had, my piety all of the sudden comes rushing back like a true cafeteria Catholic (apologies in advance as this will certainly not be the last bad pun).  Good people coming together for great food should always be blind to creed, belief, and denomination, in my opinion at least.  

With this most recent Lenten season, there was one thing in particular I noticed.  It may have been from an uptick in my TV viewing due to the pandemic, but for some reason, advertising for fast food fish sandwiches seemed to be incessant.  Bearded fishermen in yellow slickers, blaring foghorns, hackneyed sea shanties, and rusty old tugboats were casting out each chain's catch-of-the-day everywhere, guaranteeing with one bite I'd be hooked.  And what's even worse, it actually worked.  They got me.  Volume advertising pays off, I guess.  For the those few weeks I had little else on my mind beyond fried fish sandwiches.

Attempting to research the fish sandwich, I came to realize its history is kind of a murky waters situation.  I mean, any form of fish on bread could be considered a "fish sandwich."  Salmon burgers, tuna melts, catfish po' boys.  Internationally you've got Denmark's smørrebrød, Istanbul's balık ekmek and Northern Germany's fischbrötchen.  Even lox on a bagel could be considered a fish sandwich.  I don't think anyone can genuinely nail down when someone first slapped a piece of fish between two slices of bread.  

McDonald's 1976 Filet-O-Fish Advertisement 
- image and much of the Lou Groen story courtesy of Smithsonian Magazine
That being said, I believe much of our American concept of the fish sandwich is deeply rooted in McDonald's history.  Fish sandwiches were probably eaten around the country long before, but McDonald's really brought them to national prominence over the last half century.  And when most of us hear "fish sandwich," I'd bet the Filet-O-Fish or some iteration is what first, or at least second, comes to mind.  Long story short, in 1961, a McDonald's franchisee in Cincinnati named Lou Groen saw his sales floundering on Fridays due to his location in a predominately Roman Catholic neighborhood.  He noticed a nearby competitor (an older version of Bob's Big Boy actually) having great success with a fish sandwich, and decided to pitch fried halibut with tartar sauce on a bun to McDonald's CEO & Founder Ray Kroc.  Groen's idea was initially spurned, mostly because Kroc wanted to push his own meatless idea of grilled pineapple and cheese called a Hula Burger.  The 60's weren't exactly "woke" times in terms of naming conventions.  Kroc also didn't want his stores "stunk up with the smell of fish."  However, after some market testing, Groen's sandwich was switched to cod, got a piece of cheese added, was labeled the Filet-O-Fish, and sold across all Mickey D's franchises by 1965.  Other food chains followed suit and the fried fish sandwich soon became a nationwide phenomenon.

So, for my own fish sandwich adventure, why not start with the inspirational source?  Both the classic fish sandwich and my current obsession with it were created by the fast food world.  Best to begin with the fast food versions then, right?  
Going clockwise from top left - Carl's Jr.
Popeye's, McDonald's, Burger King, Wendy's

I won't lie, I eat fast food with some semi-regularity.  Taco Bell nachos hit the spot every once in a while.  Egg McMuffins are delicious.  And Chick-fil-A, well, the hate does unfortunately taste great.  However, this was aggressively on another level: two days, five sandwiches, and eventually, one rather upset tummy.  First, I hit the big three.  Burger King, Wendy's, and of course, McDonald's.  Popeye's was next on the list, as their brand new Cajun Flounder Sandwich had been all the rage.  Ironic, by the way, as Popeye's has publicly bashed "squished fish patties on a bun" for years while advertising their Shrimp Tackle Box.  Who would have guessed that fast food chains, our society's bastions of integrity, would sell out?  Lastly, I finished with Carl's Jr., mostly because it was close by.  I wanted to try Arby's Crispy Fish, but the closest location was a 45 minute drive away.  With a 6-month-old baby boy at home, the decadent days of two hour road trips just for a sandwich are currently on hiatus.  Arby's fish sandwich will have to remain my white whale, for now. 

I didn't want to ramble on, paragraph after paragraph, talking about fast food.  But not providing some breakdown of these five sandwiches would be a disservice.  A table felt most appropriate.  So, in no specific order, here's my truncated analysis:   

Chain

Sandwich

Price sandwich only pre-tax

Pros

Cons

Score



Red Hook Beer Battered Fish Sandwich
Beer Battered Alaskan Pollock, Shredded Lettuce, Tartar, Toasted Plain Bun

 
$5.891

Crispy beer batter crust was a nice texture and best exterior of the five.  Fish was also noticeably flaky.

Most off-putting stale yet squishy bun and wilted lettuce of the bunch.  The fish alone is what saved the sandwich.

 
4/10


The BK Big Fish Sandwich
Panko Breaded Alaskan Pollock, Lettuce, Pickles, Tartar, Butter-Toasted Brioche Bun

 
$3.992

 
It was edible?  Burger King’s pickles are always okay.

Pretty forgettable all around.  Flavorless fish farce with no real texture and the tartar sauce was way too sweet.  Also the wilted lettuce was upsetting.  

 
3/10


Crispy Panko Fish Sandwich
Panko Breaded Alaskan Pollock, Lettuce, Pickles, American Cheese, Tartar, Toasted Plain Bun

 
$4.19

 
Decent in size compared to the other five.  Fish was flavorful on its own.

A little too much going on.  Similar fish farce to BK with no texture, but had flavor.  And cheese on fish sandwiches makes no sense to me at all.

 
4/10


Cajun Flounder Sandwich
Cajun Seasoned AP Flour Dredged Flounder, Pickles, Tartar, Toasted Brioche Bun

 
$3.99

Best seasoned of the five.  Pickles were wonderful.  Flaky and well textured fish. 

It seemed the same dredge recipe as the fried chicken.  So while very flavorful, the flounder’s moisture compromised the crust's integrity.

 
7/10


Filet-O-Fish Sandwich
Wheat Crumb Breaded Alaskan Pollock, American Cheese, Tartar, Steamed Plain Bun

 
$5.191

Steamed bun was very good and a decent, tangy tartar sauce in comparison to the others.

As expected from past experience, fishiest of the five, not in a good way.  Again, cheese on fish?  WTF?  I’ll never get it.

 

NA3

1Carl’s Jr. and McDonald’s say the sandwiches cost in the $3.69 to $3.89 range, but there are fluctuations in franchise pricing
2 The BK Big Fish Sandwich is part of the 2 for $5 deal, so you can technically get two fish sandwiches for $5.00 before taxes
3The Filet-O-Fish is its own thing.  And while not good, you know what you’re getting and you kind of like it – like most fast food really  

With the fast food chains out of the way, it was time to move on to the high quality, local fish sandwiches.  Surely, given the Bay Area's acumen for all things culinary, there had to be some great ones.  I began doing my research, and to great disappointment, there really wasn't much.  A few cutty fish fry places here and there, and a very intriguing, but COVID-closed place named Masabaga in Oakland.  Hook Fish Co. in San Francisco and Fish in Sausalito do their spins on a fish sandwich, but not the classic style.  Also, hopefully Masabaga reopens soon because that fried tuna belly 
sandwich with yuzukosho aioli and sesame cracker looks absolutely delightful.  But where were all the others?  Why has the fish sandwich been seemingly reserved to fast food chains?  Just look at the dearth of options on a few, simple, web searches.  Mostly fried chicken spots, delis, or Red Lobster-esque places. 

Looking across the country, there were a couple celebrated versions, but not many.  I sought out a Cuban style one in Miami's Little Havana a year back.  Mainly I just saw other regional fast food chains and their fish sandwiches.  If you know of any legit establishments making them, please share as I've surely missed a few.  I can certainly sell a post-pandemic trip to Charleston, Milwaukee, San Diego or any other city under the auspices of a family vacation.  It'll be our little secret that it's truly for the fish sandwich. 

Masabaga's Tuna Belly Burger - courtesy of
San Francisco Chronicle
After much thought, I still couldn't figure out why the classic fish sandwich wasn't more contemporarily popular.  Sadly, they're overlooked and underappreciated.  But with such great potential for flavor and quality, they shouldn't be.  Maybe because the main association with them is fast food?  Sure, there are some vestigial restaurants from the 1970's around where you can still find one.  You know, those places named "The Rusty Scupper" or "Sindbad's" that have marlins and ships' helms all over the walls.  But you'd be hard pressed to find anyone who considers "The Clam Tavern" to be on the cutting edge of what's fashionable in food.  You'll find it as a special at a few trendier places occasionally, especially for the Lenten "fish sandwich season," but rarely as a staple.  And it can't be the health concerns of fried foods.  Fish 'n' chips is as popular as ever.  Plus, we've got the fried chicken sandwich renaissance that's been happening the past few years.  There are the fast food-centric "chicken wars," but we've seen the sandwich's popularity gain significant momentum on the local, celebrity, and high brow chef levels.  In the Bay Area alone we've got Flybird, The Organic Coup, The Bird, and World Famous HotBoys, not to mention the numerous pop-ups I always hear about.  And there are several celebrity chefs opening up chicken sandwich spots like David Chang's Fuku, Michael Mina's Tokyo Hot Chicken, and Sean Brock's Joyland.  Why isn't the fish sandwich getting any well-deserved love?  Where are all the trendy fish sandwich shops with names like "Port & Hull," "Dock 22," and "Fins or Tails?"  Where's "Crow's Nest Cod Sandwiches" by Jamie Oliver? 

Not quite like the commercials, eh?
I might be onto something here.  Perhaps the fish sandwich will be the next big food craze.  I say fried chicken sandwiches have jumped the shark and it's the humble fish sandwich's time to shine.  Maybe not, but one can always hope.  Either way, I knew I had to try my hand at a homemade fish sandwich.  First though, in attempting my own, the drive-thru fish sandwich escapades had provided a few key takeaways (told you the terrible puns wouldn't stop):

1)  A local, fresh filet of fish.  Pretty obvious one. Those fish stick type mash ups were not pleasant.  A white and flaky yet well textured fish like California halibut or rock fish would probably be best, based on my location.  And being a sustainable fisheries evangelist, no way I could do anything less than a responsibly caught and sourced fish for my sandwich.  Yes, I am aware the five sandwiches I'd just eaten were by no means sustainable, despite what they claim.  Pulling entire schools of pollock with their by-catch from the Bering Sea isn't exactly ecologically friendly.  We're all hypocrites from time to time.  I know I am.  This was in the name of research, at least. 

2)  Beer batter or a slurry for the fish's fried exterior.  Any sort of panko, flour, or bread crumb coating doesn't expand enough to maintain the crunchy texture when adhered to the moisture-filled fish.  Also, the steam produced once between the bun quickly breaks down any crispiness a bread crumb crust may have.  Popeye's sandwich proved both these flaws, whereas Carl's Jr. demonstrated a slurry was the way to go for optimal crunch.  Add "a salt and batter-y" charges to my fish sandwich's rap sheet.  
 
3)  A steamed bun, probably brioche.  Despite the issues with the Filet-O-Fish, the steamed bun was quite enjoyable.  Popeye's bun was also essentially steamed, due to the tin foil packaging it comes in.  A softer bun, produced from steaming, would go well in contrast to the crunchy, craggily fried fish.  The fish, after all, should be the focus, and I wouldn't want to take away from that with crusty French bread or a chewy sourdough.

4)  Pickles only, maybe a slaw.  Again, the steam and moisture from the fish once in the bun break down any fresh toppings like lettuce and they become wilted messes.  Nobody wants that.  Pickles or a vinegary cabbage slaw wouldn't break down from the steam, so they'd hold their texture and add a bright, acidic bite to cut the richness of the fish.  And of course, definitely no damn processed American cheese.    

5)  Light on the sauce.  I will admit I'm not a huge tartar sauce fan to begin with, but all five sauces ranged between mediocre to outright disgusting.  Sweet relish and mayo is just kind of gross from the start.  And the obnoxious drenching that each sandwich got of it was very disheartening.  However, a light coating could compliment well.  This really would be the wild card, too.  I could see a nice tartar-type sauce coming together with fresh cucumber, dill, citrus and some sour cream.  An Old Bay or Cajun aioli could work well, or even a malt vinegar one.  Or perhaps just a dollop of cultured butter.  I wouldn't want the sauce to overtake the fish, but it could definitely amplify the whole sandwich. 

Batter Notes

Well, this was an awful lot to contemplate and execute on my own.  I humbly knew I'd need some help on this project, but was excited to share the process with others.  So I hit up my friends Dana and Rizzi, both buddies from my previous sea foraging adventure, and we planned a good ol' fashion backyard fish fry, masked-up and socially-distanced, of course.  Rizzi, true to his nature, started geeking out on the frying batter.  He got real granular with all the potential flour, starch, and powder combinations.  As owner, chef, and operator of Lou's Takeaway in San Rafael, he's got a modest but commercial kitchen where he started testing all sorts of possibilities.  Just take a look at his preliminary trial notes.  And so many things to consider.  Viscosity, density, best adherence, appropriate leavening agent, optimal browning, proper expansion, gluten development, liquid concentration, and so on.  We chatted about it all week.  

Batter Testing
When the day finally arrived, I intently selected several condiments, seasonings, and sauces from my pantry and fridge.  Claussen's dill pickles, homemade mayonnaise, purple and green cabbage, Athletic Brewery Golden Ale, pickled jalapeños, Old Bay, Four Monk's malt vinegar, and more.  I then headed out to pick up a few key ingredients.  First, freshly baked brioche burger buns from Firebrand Bakery in Oakland.  Next, California halibut and rock fish from Tokyo Fish Market in Berkeley.  And lastly, a yuzukosho-inspired Spicy Citrus condiment from INNA Jam in Emeryville.  I'd tried some at my sister's house a while back and thought it might make the perfect tartar sauce replacement when mixed with aioli.  A combination of Meyer lemon and habanero chilis with vinegar, salt and sugar, it's a great compliment to something as simple as grilled chicken thighs or as complicated as homemade Kaiseki dinners.  Give it a try if you can.  I promise you won't be disappointed.  Anyway, with all ingredients in hand, off to Rizzi's house I headed.

Outdoor frying is always preferred
#FrySafe
As soon as Dana got there, we hit the ground running.  Dutch oven filled with soy bean oil, wok 
burner ignited, and candy thermometer positioned.  As we anxiously waited for 340°, I broke down the halibut and rock fish into sandwich sized portions while Rizzi mixed the batter and Dana digitally documented.  Rizzi busted out the metric scale for precision down to the gram, and after a few tests, we ended up on basically two parts pastry flour, one part each potato starch and rice flour, and a teaspoon each of baking powder and kosher salt, all mixed with a cup of golden ale.  Once all set, the fish portions were dredged in rice flour, dipped in the batter, and into the scalding bath they went.  Just a few minutes later, it was sandwich assembly time. 

The Descanso Way Fish Sandwich
Firebrand brioche buns came fresh out of the steamer and received a light spread on both sides of the INNA Jam spicy citrus aioli.  I thick sliced the Claussen's dill pickles and mixed shredded green cabbage with a little bit of the jalapeño pickle brine to make a simple slaw.  The golden crisped halibut and rock fish portions were then placed on the buns and the whole sandwich came together.  It tasted quite delicious, I must say.  Rizzi, admirably ever the perfectionist, saw slight areas for improvement on the batter and frying process, but all in all it was damn good.  Each cooking experience should also be a learning experience.  One can, and always should, try to improve.  However, the sharp acidity and crunch from the pickles and slaw, richness and crispness of the fish, and the spicy brightness from the habanero citrus ailoi, all gently hugged into a soft, steamy brioche bun made for one pleasant sandwich on a warm Sunday afternoon.  The only thing better was the company, of course.  Who knows, maybe we'll look back at this day and say this was when fish sandwich finally started to get its due place at the literal and proverbial table.  I can certainly say it's got its rightful place at mine from now on.

Again, big thanks to Dana for much of the photography and Rizzi for the cooking assist. 

Cheers,
The SF Oyster Nerd